Jump to content
SAU Community

R32gtst

Ben10
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ben10 Rookie

Ben10

Posted
Posted
R32gtst

So I've decided to buy a r32! I'm pre approved for a loan but only have 2 weeks to use it. I have the option of about 3 cars. 2 of them have rb25det but run RB20 transmissions. And 1 has the standard rb20 

The 2 rb25det are around the $10-12k and the other is $6k 

I have a budget of around $15k 

Question is am I better of buying the 25 swapped ones and spending a few thousand on mods. Trying to reach the 250kw -280kw with a budget of around $5k 

Or buying the rb20det one and having around $9k to spend and doing a 25/26swap ? 

The car will be only used as a weekender and maybe a track day once a year. 

And whatever one I get will be upgraded over the next few years. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470149-r32gtst/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

$5K will not bring a stock RB25DET up to 250KW and upgrade to a big box transmission. Do not have your choices dictated to by financiers. If you are good for a loan take your time finding the right car and use another lender if necessary.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470149-r32gtst/#findComment-7825361
Share on other sites
Sick_R31 Experienced

Sick_R31

Posted
Posted

3-5k to bring a stock RB25 to 250-280kw is a joke right? Injectors, turbo, ecu, RB25 gearbox, clutch, tail shaft, tune plus all the other small things your looking at $10k minimum. If you want to be able to make stop, turn and go you are going to need a 1.5 way LSD, decent pads and rotors, briaded brake lines, tyres, new suspension and new bushes, that's another $10k there.

My personal opinion is don't get a bank loan for your toys, if you can't pay for them straight up wait until you can.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470149-r32gtst/#findComment-7825407
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...