Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, recently got my R33 S1 headlights retrofitted with quad projector headlights complete with white LED ring angel eyes and red demon eyes. I bought a used set of headlights with yellowing lenses for cheap and sent them up to Sydney to be modified by That Headlight Guy. Needless to say, I was very impressed by his work and the results are amazing. He does work on all types and makes of headlights and even headlights that don't come standard with projectors! Very friendly guy to work with, his attention to detail is especially helpful, he will keep you updated throughout the build process and will even offer headlight lens restorations! 5 stars and will recommend to anyone wanting to do any sort of modification and/or restoration to their headlights!

Here's his page: https://www.facebook.com/thatheadlightguy/

 

IMG_4671.JPG

IMG_4676.JPG

IMG_4670.JPG

IMG_4674.JPG

IMG_4678.JPG

IMG_4677.JPG

IMG_4679.JPG

Edited by AeroZR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470272-r33-s1-projector-retrofit/
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, cul8er said:

Hmm I was thinking about doing this too what's the price ?

Depends what you need done. Additional angel eyes and demon eyes will add more to the cost, and how ever many projectors you need fitted will be taken into account. Extras like lens polishing and restoration will also add to the cost. Send him a message and he will be able to give you a quote.

  • Like 1
On 5/4/2017 at 4:24 PM, niZmO_Man said:

C'mon man, output shots of it fitted to your car :D

How are they switched? Selectable or always quad? Either way, huge improvement over shitty PnP kits.

Hahaha I'll get around to getting night shots eventually! She's been a major garage queen lately :P

They are direct plug and play into the existing headlight plugs. I had to install a relay kit on each headlight as the low beam and hi beam must both be powered at the same time for the bi xenon projectors to work - The standard plugs did not allow for this and when you activated the hi beams, you would completely lose power to all the lights. The relay kit fixed this issue completely. As for the angel eye LEDs, they are simply spliced into the parking light wiring and I wired the demon eyes to a separate switch in the cabin, powered by splicing into accessory (They only work if the car is on accessory or running but you can also power them directly from the battery if you wanted). They are always quad and the ballasts are simple to bolt in.

Edited by AeroZR

Ah so perma-quads. Mini H1? The Morimoto 7.0 is great width but the hotspot is typical H1 'spot' (which is one of the reasons I'd always go D2S over H1, bulb shim/quality is the main one). But running quad 7.0 should sort out that narrow hotspot "issue" haha. I hope you're running 35W on them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...