Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

44 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

PS4 is out apparently.

Yes there is only one size in 19's unfortunately which is the rear tyre size only so no staggered width (to match the stock setup and rims). The PS4S appear to have more sizes but isn't out yet.

I'm contemplating waiting it out for the PS4S but will check the compound as I have driven R compound before (I think they were 140 treadwear or so) and found daily driving required wheel spin in the 200sx to get traction on a commute in winter.

 

8 hours ago, R377 said:

Go ps2 or 3, RS3 or AD08. Maybe look at nitto

PS2 don't have suitable sizes in 19's for the V36 with stock 19 staggered rims from what I saw. Edit: OK, so the sites I was looking at had the 245/40/19 out of stock but appears 245/40/19 at front and 265/35/19 at the rear might be a possibility.... Although with the PS4 out I didn't look so hard at the PS2.. But this is a possibility now.

The PS3 is less of a performance tyre than the PS2 and PS4 (it's not an upgraded PS2 design necessarily) from what I read so excluded that. But I could be wrong.

The RS3 unfortunately only comes in the the 245/40/19 and 275/35/19 combo which is pushing the limits for the car and rims I believe.

And the AD08 appears hard to find in the right sizes (or even 20mm wider front and back), but can find the R compound AD08R in suitable sizes (both front and back 20mm wider than stock and 1% smaller all round) but feel an R compound for 99% daily drive might not be the best choice coming into winter.

Edited by Pete_Repeat

i would go 20mm max on the orig tyres so 245 front and 265 rear.  Your prob only track it once or twice so an ad08 or rs3 although great for the track will wear out much fast than a regular tyre.

We have continental mc5 on our v36 skyline 18".  They don't do do 19".  They are super comfy, low NVH and will get good km out of them.  We will do a track day and hillclimb here and there, for fun.  For a road tyre they grip well but would prob be 2 secs a lap slower than a semi on the track - who cares we aren't going for any records and for 99.9% of our driving they do us well on the road.

 

Your pretty obsessed with the ps4, can you get them from overseas ? 

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

AD08R is not an R compund. It's equivalent to a Hankook RS3.  A050/Z221  are R compound.

 

Edit Ad08 is the predecessor to ad08r, that why it would be hard to find and would be old stock 

Makes sense.

Anyone used or advise the AD08R for daily use then? Just their marketing really focus' on the track. I don't mind firm ride or anything, and would prefer a good turnin an less tyre roll but more concerned about getting heat into them.

 

Maybe I need to google a little more on them then.

I'd go 245/40 front and 265/35 rear

http://www.stgeorgetyres.com.au/tyres/yokohama-neova-ad08-265-35r19-semi-slick-tyres-2653519-265-35-19/product-detail.aspx

That's probably old stock, best to ask for production date

AD08 (not R), mate's old MY05 WRX STi, quite comfortable for daily use, more wet grip than the standard RE070. No track work unfortunately (he sold the car soon after). Extreme overkill for daily use but if you're tracking it, then might as well get them (or Potenza RE-71R). If you're doing a lot of driving then I'd go something like INVO or similar road tyre.

  • 1 month later...

OK. I am now determined to get the new Pilot Sport 4S. Stress on the S.

So it looks like the stock fronts 225/45/19 are ehre, but the rear 245/40/19 has no defined date (if any). Only available in the US at the moment.

So I am looking at the following with pro's and cons to each;

- Stock sizes

        - Too long a wait, if the 245/40/19 even get here seeing that is the only 19 inch size in the PS 4 so they may never bring it in who knows.

- 225/40/19 and 245/35/19

        - Cheapest combo by about $200 for the set of 4.

        -  Available now

        -  3.4% and 3.75% smaller rolling diameter so speedo out by almost 10% with 7% OEM error. This isn't a big problem for me really, other than when I finally track it that te 180 kmph limited will occur easier.

        - VDC and ABS should be fine I believe as almost the same reduction front and rear.

- 235/40/19 and 255/36/19

        - $200 more epxensive

        - Available mid August, although I can wait if need be

        -  2.2% and 2.6% smaller so a little less speedo error.

        -  VDC and ABS almost the same conditions as above.

 

Anyone have any comments?

Just now, The Max said:

Your determination to go with the PS4S is well-founded. I got them for the fronts because of the OEM size and they're worth every cent. They certainly outgrip my PS3 tyres in the rear.

I think I read too much as every tyre listed in this thread either didn't come in the right sizes or I eventually found feedback to say otherwise. These are the only tyre I have only  heard good feedback on. Yeh I know they are fairly new, but they have been out for 6 months in the states. 

I've gone round and round in circles really. From cheap to expensive. Tempted with some cheap option to find they were excessively noisy. Now sitting at the upper limit although the 225/40/19 and 245/35/19 (lower profile only) seem to be a "reasonable"  $1476 at the moment. I can live with the extra 3% speedo error (easier to calculate at 10% including oem error) knowing the ratio front to rear diameter/circumference is almost the same.

I'm almost there. Will likely order them unless someone throws a spanner in the works in the next day or two (more to do with sizing) . Sorta need the rears changed with this cooler weather as they spin easily in first gear in a straight line with the clutch already out.

Took the plunge. 

Pilot sport 4s with 225/40/19 and 245/35/19.

Price, availability and very similar diameter change sold me. 10 percent speed error here we come (only up a little from oem 7 percent) and 162km/h real speed limiter ha ha.

Getting installed on Saturday. 

Now deciding on wheel alignment settings. Might resurrect my other topic on this again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...