Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

 

Im respraying an r33 Bootlid from white to black. Ive removed the rear lock and smoothed over the hole with some fibreglass resin then put some metal bodyfiller over it. There are a few pinholes in the bodyfiller so i was wondering if i should reapply the filler or will the holes disappear once i spray body fill primer over it?

 

Should i spray primer over the whole boot or just the area that has been sanded to bare metal? And should i sand the primer before spraying the base coat, if so what grit sandpaper?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470682-respraying-a-bootlid/
Share on other sites

Reapply over the pinholes and sand down again. Lightly sand the whole boot with 800 grit to knock any shine off. I would primer coat the whole thing and then sand with 800 - 1000 grit wet and dry. Preparation is everything. If the surface is shit, it doesn't matter how well you paint it, it will still look shit.

 

 

Hey there, i sprayed my wing just recently and purchased a proper 2 pack spray can off ebay. Theres a button on the bottom of the can which once pressed, will automatically mix the hardener with the paint. The can was around $30 from a place in melbourne. Plus, i also got a can of 2 pack clear coat which gave a really nice finish

Hey there, i sprayed my wing just recently and purchased a proper 2 pack spray can off ebay. Theres a button on the bottom of the can which once pressed, will automatically mix the hardener with the paint. The can was around $30 from a place in melbourne. Plus, i also got a can of 2 pack clear coat which gave a really nice finish

That sounds fantastic. Can you provide a link to eBay item or seller please. Thanks.

Hi, whilst using touch up spray cans are quick, cheap & convenient, I'm not sure you're going to be 100% happy with the outcome seeing that you're painting such a large surface. Perhaps look at getting a quote from a panel shop to do the finish coat and clear if necessary. Might be a better option. Spray cans have their use, but the finish they produce is quite variable. Good luck.

I know that it's best to take it to a panel shop, but the places i have called up have quoted anywhere from $350-$500 to spray it, i can't justify that considering i picked up the boot for $30.

Also i would rather have the satisfaction of knowing i sprayed it myself. My car is not a show car by any means so I'm willing to give it a go.

sorry for the late reply. yes, thats the exact same one i used :) i agree with paul about painting a large surface. The cans are great for side mirrors and wings etc but for bigger panels it may be harder to get a brilliant finish. 

I know a pro will do much better job but even $300 is too much for me.

 

I already have an excellent condition boot with GTR spoiler on my 33gtst. i prefer the standard spoiler so i picked up a gtst s2 spoiler and new boot with the intention of smoothing over the nissan lock and repainting.

 

I'm just looking at just giving it a go myself just to have a bit of fun and get some experience with spray painting.

That's why i was thinking it might be good to invest in a compressor and spray gun so i can paint this and any other parts in the future.

 

If i was painting my only boot then i would defiantly get a pro to do it.

Refill and smoothen the holes. Spray acrylic primer ($12-14 at super cheap.

take your petrol cap off and take it to a paint shop. Have them make the paint in 2pak cans and get a can of 2pac clear. 

Wet sand primer. Use wax and grease remover over area being painted. Apply paint then a day later apply clear. 

The cans with the hardener will give a nice finish. Just don't get trigger happy and spray too much at once. Spray one coat wait 15 then another light coat 

good luck 

Edited by AARR34

Would prefer not to use 2 pack, i don't want to make my asthma worse. Would need around 3 cans for base coat and 3 for clear (im guessing) so that's $180 there already.

Thats why i was thinking might as well get a spray gun.

Just trying to find out how much a decent one will cost and recommendations.

I can always just forget about the boot, just trying to weigh out my options

You won't need 3 cans for the boot. You'll hardly get through one. 

Spray guns are good but only if you know how to use them Professionally. Also you'll need a booth for a proper pro job.

i wouldn't go spray gun unless you're painting the whole car.

i did my boot lid with 2pak cans. Looks like factory finish 

 

 

IMG_0184.JPG

Edited by AARR34
You won't need 3 cans for the boot. You'll hardly get through one. 
Spray guns are good but only if you know how to use them Professionally. Also you'll need a booth for a proper pro job.
i wouldn't go spray gun unless you're painting the whole car.
i did my boot lid with 2pak cans. Looks like factory finish 
 
 
IMG_0184.thumb.JPG.7312df71f9715428c06860bee1bd4795.JPG

That looks pretty good.
How many cans did you need?

I went through one can of paint and one can of clear. Think it totalled around $30-$40 but they were 2pak cans. 

Might even be less than that. Get 2 cans of paint and one clear. The second one can be a back up 

Edited by AARR34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...