Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lowering a r33 gts-4

Hi, just after some advice in how low you can lower a gts-4 or gtr without effecting the camber or geometry of the awd and suspension. The car is going to be street driven so nothing crazy low and still legal limit from the ground. But Would anyone know how low you can go on standard camber adjutsment and control arms ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471396-lowering-a-r33-gts-4/
Share on other sites

The usually accepted number is the same, both for legality reasons and also how well the suspension works.  This is an "eyebrow height" of around 340-345mm.  The eyebrow height is defined as the vertical distance from the centre of the wheel hub (actually the centre of the wheel's own centre cap will do) to the height of the standard wheel arch/guard lip.  Actually measuring it on the slight outward angle that is likely to result from the wheel sitting slightly inside the line of the guard is not really a problem.  No worse than the measurement error of eyeballing a tape measure anyway.

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The usually accepted number is the same, both for legality reasons and also how well the suspension works.  This is an "eyebrow height" of around 340-345mm.  The eyebrow height is defined as the vertical distance from the centre of the wheel hub (actually the centre of the wheel's own centre cap will do) to the height of the standard wheel arch/guard lip.  Actually measuring it on the slight outward angle that is likely to result from the wheel sitting slightly inside the line of the guard is not really a problem.  No worse than the measurement error of eyeballing a tape measure anyway.

 alright good thanks for the reply so if i stay over 350mm from the top of the guard to the centre of the hub, I shouldnt need to get adjustable conrtol arms and camber kits, just a aliment will do ?? 

I wouldn't say that you wouldn't need adjustable somethings.  That depends on the physical state of your existing bushes, how bent parts of the car are, etc etc.  Also, at or near that minimum height, you will possibly end up with more -ve camber than you'd like, particularly at the rear.  So some Whiteline kits installed in the rear uppers might make a lot of sense. There pretty much is no camber adjustment in the stock suspension.

I personally would not try to avoid putting in at least adjustable poly bushes in the front uppers and rear uppers, adjustable front caster rods with rod end (rose) joints, and possibly one or two other things.  Having the ability to wind in a little more camber at the front or a little less, plus change the caster can make a massive difference to how the car drives, tyres last, etc etc.

 

I would get them if i could afford them but i just brought bc coilovers for it and cant spend a heap of money right now, i only plan on having the car 360mm eyebrow height, i dont mind gettibg adjustable bushings for it but trying to avoid getting new caster and upper control arms 

Thanks for the advice appricate it 

 

 

 

Edited by Rewseyracing

I just checked the official pdf from SA Transport for the eyebrow heights.  R32&3 turbos are F345, R355.  All R34s are F340, R345.  R32&3GTR are F375, R355.

These are all with the vehicle in operating condition, but unladen.  So, no load in the boot, no passengers.

360 will be fine.  But keep in mind that 360 F&R might look a little wrong.

The 100mm clearance under the car and the 2/3s original suspension travel requirements are also in play but you should not have a problem at the acceptable eyebrow heights unless your exhaust hangs low or you have an extra CF lip on the front.

Thanks for all the help ill defently make sure the exhaust and everything else is above 100mm and hopefully have the front at 360-370mm and rear at 350-355mm. Ill still get the adjustable upper control arm bushes and rear bushes just to make sure the tyre wear is going to be happy 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...