Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the Add. Just like to say 1992 was the start of my passion for Nissan. My Old Man loves cars lead to many purchases, like Triumph Stag, Ford Cobra, Brock Commodore, Mini Moke, Ford Doc's Coupe, to name a few. But one car ended all that.... a car that you could ask more, and it would deliver plus more. His GTR. Bought as a ..."Demo" ...with 7kms on the clock from Col Crawford's Brookvale. $85,000 "Bargain" ; ) this car has original exhaust, radio and front bar in storage. Had a Nismo exhaust Dealer fitted at the time. It has been stolen 3 times and lost several badges to the screwdriver fairies. Has a factory warranty replacement engine fitted. The reason I've joined apart from the hope of (fingers crossed, finger crossed) one day having the GT passed down to me, is a lot items need replaced like aged amber lens, missing badges, wheel centers, air vents, window mouldings and hopeful we can get it Beast back in order51fd4534fa75b7333f86df4a1e46894b.jpg35d82b2383816d7b72952d120211b608.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471488-adm-gtr-28/
Share on other sites

The paint looks good.

The things need replacing don't look too hard.

anything different from jdm gtr compared to the australian one? And it was worth 85k$ in '92???? Damn. I thought they were in the 60k$ range in '92.

Edited by drunken0elf
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471488-adm-gtr-28/#findComment-7842730
Share on other sites

The qualification for racing was a myth. The homologation for group A was done by the Nismo gun-metal grey model cars in 1990. Also the depreciation must have been crazy (as shown by your Dad's purchase price) on the ADM's at the time due to the Grey import market. There's heaps of info here on the ADM cars and you can post info and pictures of your car as well.

Welcome to the forum :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471488-adm-gtr-28/#findComment-7842748
Share on other sites

I remember thinking it was a Red Batmobile as a teenager when he rock up home with it. Honestly could not understand how fast it cornered (like on rails) at the time. The Brock Commodore or even Mini's paled in comparison. Mind blowingly fast also at the time. Recently he has been offered over $60,000 for it he would have accepted it 5 years ago but then i just tell him to take it for one more drive... not for sale. I'm Evil i know.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471488-adm-gtr-28/#findComment-7842764
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, drunken0elf said:

The paint looks good.

The things need replacing don't look too hard.

anything different from jdm gtr compared to the australian one? And it was worth 85k$ in '92???? Damn. I thought they were in the 60k$ range in '92.

ADM GTR's where and always will be worth more. A mint example today is actually worth more than its new asking price. Reason being there was only 100 brought into australia and sold by Nissan Australia. Supply vs demand.  A few things where changed on them to meet adr standards when they arrived in oz, not sure exactly what these where but i'd imagine things like a 3rd brake light, reflectors, that sort of thing. There are other guys on here that could list just about everthing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471488-adm-gtr-28/#findComment-7842774
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...