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R33 gtst missfiring problem?

Mitch r33
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Mitch r33 Apprentice

Mitch r33

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1 minute ago, Got a Pulsar said:

Might be ok, but try the other things first (CRC and coil wrapping) and go from there.

Heaps of info in this site about all these things as they have all been covered many many times over, so have a mad search, read up on R&R, misfires, Fuel pump installs etc etc.

and go nuts!

I know I sure did. :yes:

Spent all day searching haha. How much of the coil do you wrap with electrical tape?

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
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lol I spent years searching.  

Never wrapped them myself but I'd go from the bit that goes over the sparkplugs all the way up the shaft to the box!

hmmm... sounds quite suggestive when you say it like that. :D

Mitch r33 Apprentice

Mitch r33

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11 hours ago, Got a Pulsar said:

lol I spent years searching.  

Never wrapped them myself but I'd go from the bit that goes over the sparkplugs all the way up the shaft to the box!

hmmm... sounds quite suggestive when you say it like that.

Haha alright, I'll let you know how I go later this arvo :)

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Mitch r33 Apprentice

Mitch r33

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23 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

Sound's like R&R (rich and retard).

The stock ecu is seeing more air than it's used to so it tries to protect the engine by adding more fuel and retarding the timing. This would make sense since the problem started after you installed the fmic and raised the boost which would result in increased airflow.

 

This causes a loss of power and the misfiring feeling. You could try clean your AFM with some MAF cleaner and dropping the boost 1 or 2 psi, the problem should go away then.

 

Are you sure you are running only 10psi and not higher?

 

 

 

22 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Problem(s) could be from either the Superspark coils (which are rubbish, sorry to be blunt) or faulty OEM ones.

Best to get Splitfire ones or go Yaris conversion or LS conversion coils.

 

20 hours ago, Kinks said:

Sure, none of us want to spend extra money but if your coil packs are buggered or you spent $400 when you should have spent $600 then the only way out is to spend $600.  Not $500 or $400.  

Always buy Splitfires at minimum.  Do not try and go cheaper.  You will only end up opening your wallet again to buy what you should have bought the first time.

 

19 hours ago, admS15 said:

I wouldn't not doubt the coilpacks in that assumption. I'm not saying that it is your coils either but if they're weak it shows up when boost and power increases.

 

As above, if buying new coils stay away from the bright coloured ones unless they're the bluey purple ones, otherwise OEM or conversion.

 

I'm going to entertain the R and R theory.

 

 

 

15 hours ago, Got a Pulsar said:

No I would not as there's still too many variables. Start with the easy and cheap fixes and eliminate them first.

What pump did you put in? Did you feed it a new 12 Volt line via a relay or just use existing wiring?

Some after market pumps don't like old stock wiring.

Check the coils for cracking and wrap the whole long bit to eliminate any arcing if need be.

Update:

have cleaned afm, ran stock boost from inlet piping straight to actuator. Have tried both my sets of coil packs, new plugs. So it can't be rnr or spark related. Any other suggestions? Ignitor?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Problem(s) could be from either the Superspark coils (which are rubbish, sorry to be blunt) or faulty OEM ones.

Best to get Splitfire ones or go Yaris conversion or LS conversion coils.

 LS conversion

  • Like 1
Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

If Series 1 then yes it could be the igniter, could also be fuel pump related or could be faulty AFM or boost leak or vac leak since you've disturbed the piping.

Engine needs Air, Fuel and Spark soooo... keep at it.

Mitch r33 Apprentice

Mitch r33

Posted
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1 minute ago, Got a Pulsar said:

If Series 1 then yes it could be the igniter, could also be fuel pump related or could be faulty AFM or boost leak or vac leak since you've disturbed the piping.

Engine needs Air, Fuel and Spark soooo... keep at it.

Ok I'll look into it

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

By the ecu thinking the air is going in to the engines and putting the fuel in to suit, only for the air to sneak out a leak and make the engine run rich, or even show enoigh airflow to go into rich and retard.

The ecu doesn't know if the air that goes through the maf makes it into the engine.

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