Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help; car wont start (and its not the starter)

So I went to drive the R33 work last week and when I cranked the ignition the engine began to start as normal but then cut out. Further attempts so start only had the starter appearing to work but would not start the engine. I assumed that the starter was somehow spinning but not engaging and therefore was at fault (its 19 years old) so I bought a new one and painfully installed it. I went to start the car; no change. I still hear spinning of a starter but the engine doesn't even try to fire up.

The car is modified and on the ignition side the fuel pump is about 2 years old, and the plugs 1, battery is fairly new and alternator also is about a year old. Generally the whole car is well looked after.

So why wont my car start? Ideas? What died?

Big thanks...

check your engine fuse/relay. both in cabin and in engine bay

If you haven't already

Lastly - is the battery good or low in charge? Borrow some ones or throw jumper leads  on it from a vehicle that is running

Edited by Anonymouse
spelling mistake
54 minutes ago, ausdrift said:

coilpacks were replaced with new splitfires 2 months ago so it shouldnt be that, should it. And it would run rough with a dodgy coil, rather than have no ignition at all right?

 

 

The basic things to check are spark and fuel.

It's up to you if you want to check it, considering it is very easy I can't see why you wouldn't.

I'm a bit limited in what I can do right at the moment, but I have gone out and checked all relevant fuses (should have been my first step, I know) and there are none blown.

Battery has over 12V and that's after me cranking is a bunch during testing/diagnosis (but this im 100% isn't related to the problem).

The diagnosis plan from BenC34 (thanks!) is something I will have to attempt over the weekend as I don't have time until then.

To otherwise check that the fuel pump is working, I think it primes and makes a noise when you turn the key to ACC, right?

Also I have a PowerFC; is there a way to check for any error codes or diagnosis on that?

And any other magic bullet items that may have failed for it to die like it has?

thanks all

Disconnect fuel filter at bottom end so it's just a hose from the back of the car (note - you'll get fuel over the place so be prepared) - have someone keep an eye on the hose when you crank it. If nothing, fuel pump (or relay/fuse) is gone.

 

I had the same thing, did that, no fuel movement when cranking. New fuel pump with relay mod, bam back in business.

 

If fuel comes out, then spark is bad - either coilpacks (or igniter if s1 but I think you're saying it's an s2), or plugs themselves.

 

Last ditch effort, get a stock ecu just to test. Plug in, crank, if it works, then there's your problem.

ok bit of an update. Rather embarrassingly, it appears the cause is a flat battery. Rather than eliminate the basics I panicked and jumped to higher conclusions. I actually had a year old battery fail 5 months ago and got it replaced for a new one. For this reason and because it failed differently (voltage didn't drop as low, so it still chugged but didn't start, as opposed to the engine not even attempting ignition this time) I discounted the battery as being the culprit, but some internet research later and a few things added up. Checked the voltage, charged it overnight and its not looking good, so I think I'm off the shop I bought it from to again get it tested/changed. I guess this is the best outcome, although I really wish my battery's would be a bit more set and forget.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...