Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Retrofit Morimoto Projector but Keep H3C Halogen Bulb

TXSquirrel

By TXSquirrel,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
Posted

I am currently looking at different options to retrofit R32 headlight with Morimoto projector globe.  Has anyone tried using halogen bulb instead of HID with those globes? 

I have read write-ups posted here using Morimoto mini H1 and FX-R, has anyone tried other Morimoto globes or globes from other brands or other vehicles?

Thanks in advance!

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

You won't be using the standard halogen bulbs. You're completely changing the setup.

Get D2S projectors, use quality bulbs and ballasts (e.g. Osram CBI + DLT F3 Faststart). Don't bother with Mini H1 as that'll be inferior.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93963-xenon-hid-lights-conversion-for-r32/

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info!

Actually I want to run halogen instead of HID, and for that I think the only option is to run H1 halogen in the Morimoto globe.

I know for a period of time many vehicles on the market came standard with projector globe and halogen, then HID as optional extra.  My friend's Murano was like that with H11 bulb.  Those vehicles will be my focal point of search.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

I have Toyota H11 projectors laying around, which are pretty decent.

You can run an adapter plate (D2S → H1), it's not too shabby with the output. You'll have to make it yourself (something I'll do one day, when I stop being so lazy).

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/showoff/output-shots-beam-pattern-pictures/1440683-md2s-with-h1-halogen

I found with an old Morimoto min H1 (5.0 I think), H1 halogen bulb wouldn't fit in it (makes sense, it's not designed for a halogen bulb, it's designed to take an aftermarket H1 HID bulb). So might as well go D2S :)

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Holy cow that is some amazing output with H1 halogen!  I see the OP uses Morimoto MD2S 4.0, but I have difficulty understanding how he made the adapter or washer work.  Can you please explain?

Also, which Toyota H11 projector do you have, out of which car model?

So yeah I asked TRS today and they told me no go with H1 halogen in mini H1.  But seeing how great the result is with H1 halogen in MD2S, not sure there are better options.  Just need to figure out how to mount the MD2S, especially figuring out how to mount it flush.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

I have 2010 Auris headlights (called Corolla down here, trying to figure out a retrofit for them). It's pretty much the same as Camry and other Toyota H11 projectors.

Any reason why you don't want to run HID? The Mini H1 is inferior, but smaller than the D2S projectors. No reason to get them as you can fit big projectors in the R32 headlights (like the FX-R). The links above should indicate how easy the Mini D2S or similarly sized projectors can fit.

TXSquirrel Community Regular

TXSquirrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I want to stay period correct and stay with regular color or 3200k halogen.  I know HID has 3800k that looks really close to halogen, but I still prefer the look of halogen.  I run aftermarket HID in my other cars, but for my R32 I want to stay halogen.

I read the retrofit posted here using FX-R, which is another good choice.  But I have not seen pictures or results of FX-R with halogen, I will stay with the MD2S with proven pictures.  Also the FX-R is an enclosed housing, so I am not sure how well it can deal with the heat from halogen as compared to the open housing of MD2S.

The OP said he used 2 adapters each bulb, but looking at the fitted picture I am not sure I see two.  And I guess he removed the actual bulb, slide over an adapter, then clamp it back?  And then he mentioned spring and o-ring which confuses me even more.

Quote

These adapters come from a 225mm Auxlight named NBB Alpha 225, they can be bought as a spare part here in Sweden, you will need 4 of them, one to put over the bulb to hold it down, and then you need to get rid of the spring that holds the xenon bulb, I used an O-ring instead of the spring, a ground wire needs to be squezed between the two adapters.

 

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

FX-R is OEM-like spring-to-bowl mounting. The Minis have some weird lock ring mounting because of the threaded shaft (which I like to avoid as it's rubbish).

Heat won't be an issue, it's the UV that kills the bowls. Use a good bulb (Philips or Osram) and you'll be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...