Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am currently looking at different options to retrofit R32 headlight with Morimoto projector globe.  Has anyone tried using halogen bulb instead of HID with those globes? 

I have read write-ups posted here using Morimoto mini H1 and FX-R, has anyone tried other Morimoto globes or globes from other brands or other vehicles?

Thanks in advance!

You won't be using the standard halogen bulbs. You're completely changing the setup.

Get D2S projectors, use quality bulbs and ballasts (e.g. Osram CBI + DLT F3 Faststart). Don't bother with Mini H1 as that'll be inferior.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93963-xenon-hid-lights-conversion-for-r32/

Thanks for the info!

Actually I want to run halogen instead of HID, and for that I think the only option is to run H1 halogen in the Morimoto globe.

I know for a period of time many vehicles on the market came standard with projector globe and halogen, then HID as optional extra.  My friend's Murano was like that with H11 bulb.  Those vehicles will be my focal point of search.

I have Toyota H11 projectors laying around, which are pretty decent.

You can run an adapter plate (D2S → H1), it's not too shabby with the output. You'll have to make it yourself (something I'll do one day, when I stop being so lazy).

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/showoff/output-shots-beam-pattern-pictures/1440683-md2s-with-h1-halogen

I found with an old Morimoto min H1 (5.0 I think), H1 halogen bulb wouldn't fit in it (makes sense, it's not designed for a halogen bulb, it's designed to take an aftermarket H1 HID bulb). So might as well go D2S :)

Holy cow that is some amazing output with H1 halogen!  I see the OP uses Morimoto MD2S 4.0, but I have difficulty understanding how he made the adapter or washer work.  Can you please explain?

Also, which Toyota H11 projector do you have, out of which car model?

So yeah I asked TRS today and they told me no go with H1 halogen in mini H1.  But seeing how great the result is with H1 halogen in MD2S, not sure there are better options.  Just need to figure out how to mount the MD2S, especially figuring out how to mount it flush.

I have 2010 Auris headlights (called Corolla down here, trying to figure out a retrofit for them). It's pretty much the same as Camry and other Toyota H11 projectors.

Any reason why you don't want to run HID? The Mini H1 is inferior, but smaller than the D2S projectors. No reason to get them as you can fit big projectors in the R32 headlights (like the FX-R). The links above should indicate how easy the Mini D2S or similarly sized projectors can fit.

I want to stay period correct and stay with regular color or 3200k halogen.  I know HID has 3800k that looks really close to halogen, but I still prefer the look of halogen.  I run aftermarket HID in my other cars, but for my R32 I want to stay halogen.

I read the retrofit posted here using FX-R, which is another good choice.  But I have not seen pictures or results of FX-R with halogen, I will stay with the MD2S with proven pictures.  Also the FX-R is an enclosed housing, so I am not sure how well it can deal with the heat from halogen as compared to the open housing of MD2S.

The OP said he used 2 adapters each bulb, but looking at the fitted picture I am not sure I see two.  And I guess he removed the actual bulb, slide over an adapter, then clamp it back?  And then he mentioned spring and o-ring which confuses me even more.

Quote

These adapters come from a 225mm Auxlight named NBB Alpha 225, they can be bought as a spare part here in Sweden, you will need 4 of them, one to put over the bulb to hold it down, and then you need to get rid of the spring that holds the xenon bulb, I used an O-ring instead of the spring, a ground wire needs to be squezed between the two adapters.

 

FX-R is OEM-like spring-to-bowl mounting. The Minis have some weird lock ring mounting because of the threaded shaft (which I like to avoid as it's rubbish).

Heat won't be an issue, it's the UV that kills the bowls. Use a good bulb (Philips or Osram) and you'll be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...