Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone successfuly used silicone blanking caps before or know of something better to use?

Deleted the IACV from underneath the RB26 inlet plenum so have some decent size (10mm OD?) air ports that need blanking. Ideally i would have crimped them shut and then run a bead of weld across them to keep them 100% sealed but the manifold is already on now so looking for an easier solution. Thinking basically a silicone blanking cap with a little sealant inside and then either a worm drive hose clamp or a spring hose clamp. Will be running up to 30psi so they will have a fair bit of pressure to be holding back.

 

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473026-silicone-blanking-caps/
Share on other sites

I've used both silicone and rubber blanking caps without issue (although not at that boost, but I don't think it makes a difference). For that matter I've used all sorts of "whatever I have around in the right size" sealers like 6mm bolts or solid rod to blank off unneeded hoses. I even saw a mechanic using a old oil filter to seal a gtr intake when doing a leak down test. Basically anything the right size that won't crush under a hose clamp

A blanking cap is no more likely to come loose than any hose joint, so whatever hose clamps you use elsewhere will work the same for a blanking cap.

4 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

For simpleicity reasons, RB26 IACV is a f**king mess and more trouble than it's worth i reckon.

Yeah thinking i might just use hose and then an appropriately sized bolt.

What are you doing for idle control?

And are you talking about the iacv or aac valve for both? I'm converting to single throttle body by removing throttle plates and adding vh45 throttle body.

 Not sure if I need aac/ iacv as the car is auto

Edited by Griffin
Yes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...