Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

 

So I bought a couple of RB's recently. First I bought one, which turned out to be in a worse state than I anticipated. I contacted the seller, and he had another RB20 which he called a "stroker". He kindly GAVE me this engine as well, so now I have two for the cheap price of one! 

The "stroker" engine is now opened for inspection, and what I found was 83mm forged pistons, stock crank and rods. An engine calculator translated this to 2,26L of displacement.

The head featured what I think is Tomei cams with adjustable Tomei pulleys. The cams are stamped "64 - 8.5" at the rear ends, and they both have a white T written on them. I believe this means they are 264's with 8.5mm lift. Can anyone verify this?

The big bore engine also came with a HKS dual plate clutch. The other one came with a single plate ACT clutch. Which one should I use on my engine? The car is a street car and I want a clutch that is not too harsh. 

As for the power output I am hoping to be able to run around 300rwkw, but in the start I will use the stock RB25 turbo that came with the other engine. 

 

I also wonder where I can find an 83mm bore MLS head gasket for my engine?

As for engine management system, I have a cheap AEM Series 2 PnP ECU on hand. Is this a good choice?

 

And oh, the engine is going into my 1970 Datsun 240Z, along with a stock RB20 tranny.

There will probably be more questions later, so I thought it was a good idea to collect them all in this thread :P

 

Best regards,

Tomzern

I thought the gearbox might be to weak for those power figures myself?

What is the maximum safe HP/NM that the RB20 box can handle? 

In the beginning I will run this setup with a stock RB25 turbo, so the power output won't be that high. I am hoping the stock tranny will work with the initial setup.

If I decide to upgrade later, will the driveshaft fit the RB25 box as well?

The box that is in the Z now, is a much older 5-speed Z-box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...