Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts


Got a bit of an issue.

2 days ago I noticed my motor is making a noticeable 'clackkk' sound at 1500rpm, under no load.

I only noticed it because I was standing beside the car, with the bonnet open, gently revving the motor.

The 'clackkk' sound comes from the top of the motor (not from the front under the cam chain cover) and occurs whether I stab the throttle or increase revs gradually. It happens as it passes through 1500rpm. It's predictable and repeatable.

I've never heard this sound while inside the car with the bonnet closed. So I don't know if it's happening while driving and/or with the engine under load.

I thought, since it happens only at 1500rpm, that it might be the CVCT system. But that is Continuously Variable. So I'm thinking there should be no single point or RPM value at which the VCT 'switches' the timing.

Car is an NM35 with VQ25DET, Hypergear turbo, all supporting cooling, exhaust, & fuel mods for 270kw atw, inc. lots of Scotty parts, and eManage Ultimate ECU.

Can anyone help me with knowledge, experience, diagnostic advice?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474637-strange-noise-at-1500rpm-vq25det/
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Darkmeat said:


Got a bit of an issue.

2 days ago I noticed my motor is making a noticeable 'clackkk' sound at 1500rpm, under no load.

I only noticed it because I was standing beside the car, with the bonnet open, gently revving the motor.

The 'clackkk' sound comes from the top of the motor (not from the front under the cam chain cover) and occurs whether I stab the throttle or increase revs gradually. It happens as it passes through 1500rpm. It's predictable and repeatable.

I've never heard this sound while inside the car with the bonnet closed. So I don't know if it's happening while driving and/or with the engine under load.

I thought, since it happens only at 1500rpm, that it might be the CVCT system. But that is Continuously Variable. So I'm thinking there should be no single point or RPM value at which the VCT 'switches' the timing.

Car is an NM35 with VQ25DET, Hypergear turbo, all supporting cooling, exhaust, & fuel mods for 270kw atw, inc. lots of Scotty parts, and eManage Ultimate ECU.

Can anyone help me with knowledge, experience, diagnostic advice?

They do switch.

Sounds like your cam actuator is worn out or broken, have seen this issue on a few M35 lately. I believe Scotty can fix them without removing the engine.
Another member has his fixed at Chaser.

On 8/3/2018 at 3:02 PM, West said:

They do switch.

Sounds like your cam actuator is worn out or broken, have seen this issue on a few M35 lately. I believe Scotty can fix them without removing the engine.
Another member has his fixed at Chaser.

Thanks for the info, West. Most appreciated.

Hope I can find someone in the Central Coast - Newcastle area who knows these motors.

After sitting off the road for sometime I received my car (2001 ARX) back with a sound that fits the cam actuator problem - comes in at around 1600 rpm, up to about 2400. Starts after running for one or two minutes, marble in spray can/ clacking sound. When car was returned the oil was quite dark, run 5 /30 full synth. Oil and filter change, same full synth 5/30 oil. Sound still there after warm up. 

So this fits in with all of the postings re. it being cam actuator. Also note it tends to make the noise more often if accelerator is given little blips rather just pressed.

What I am not sure about is why the sound stays no matter which of the 2 blue plugs at the front of the engine that you disconnect and disconnecting these do not cause CEL to show on dash. (Might make it very slightly quieter if the driver side is disconnected.)

Inclined to think this means cam actuator/s are still the problem and are significantly damaged?

Worth trying 10/40 oil? 

Possible further damage trying to drive to a repairer?

On 8/11/2018 at 3:05 PM, Old Gregg said:

After sitting off the road for sometime I received my car (2001 ARX) back with a sound that fits the cam actuator problem - comes in at around 1600 rpm, up to about 2400. Starts after running for one or two minutes, marble in spray can/ clacking sound. When car was returned the oil was quite dark, run 5 /30 full synth. Oil and filter change, same full synth 5/30 oil. Sound still there after warm up. 

So this fits in with all of the postings re. it being cam actuator. Also note it tends to make the noise more often if accelerator is given little blips rather just pressed.

What I am not sure about is why the sound stays no matter which of the 2 blue plugs at the front of the engine that you disconnect and disconnecting these do not cause CEL to show on dash. (Might make it very slightly quieter if the driver side is disconnected.)

Inclined to think this means cam actuator/s are still the problem and are significantly damaged?

Worth trying 10/40 oil? 

Possible further damage trying to drive to a repairer?

Errm. You lost me at "two blue plugs at the front of the engine ..."

What two bue plugs?

ta.

On ‎8‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 12:06 PM, Darkmeat said:

Errm. You lost me at "two blue plugs at the front of the engine ..."

What two bue plugs?

ta.

There is blue connector on left and right bank at the front of the engine. Apparently they are the electrical connector for the VVT cam actuator. (These seem to be given a few different names on here.)

These two links might help. Check on the above info as I was posting on here to try to understand exactly how these behave rather than offer advice.

Good Luck.

Following discussions are some help:

 

  • Thanks 1
On 8/11/2018 at 4:21 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's not because it's switching.....it's because it's mechanically f**ked, that it makes noise.

I'm mechanically f**ked and I don't make a noise like that.

  • Haha 2
  • 4 weeks later...

The EVTC activates at 2.5volt output from the MAF sensor. You can control the activation point by manipulating the MAF signal. Don’t forget to fix the fueling if you do. Also the trans shift timing will be affected with any modification of MAF output.

Matt

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...