Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just wondering what other Nitto 3.2 owners are running or their heads? My 3.2 will be built in a few weeks, and am pondering on how much to spend on the head.

I have a 9180 with a 1.01 hotside. Will be looking at flex fuel as well.

What mods to the head are you guys running please? I have also bought a brand new head. So far I am thinking:

Cams
Tomei Cam gears(Already have)
Supertech dual valve springs with Ti retainers(kit)
Valve guides
Stem seals

I am also going to get the head ported and cleaned up where necessary. I don't intend on running more then 2bar, as the shaft speed will probably exceed 118k~.

How far are you guys going in terms of porting and head work? I understand that the stock head will give me loads already, however a light touch up wouldn't hurt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474793-rb26-head-build/
Share on other sites

Depends entirely on your requirements. If it is a street car "a light touch up" will do nothing for you.

How much power do you want ? How fast do you want to spin your engine? Street, drag strip or circuit racing? An all out race build will be no fun to drive on the street.

Any head work that is effective will cost an arm and a leg.

But regardless of cam choice adjustable cam gears will give you more tuning options.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474793-rb26-head-build/#findComment-7883996
Share on other sites

My heads being done atm for my RB34 running a precision 7675. It has the following:

Ferrea os valves, bronze guides, kelford beehive springs and ti retainers, race port and just general stuff like a deck, seat cut, valve seals etc. 

If you're going to port it definitely get the lumps removed on the exhaust side and smooth out the bowls. My machinist calls that his street port. It's around $800 for the street porting if I remember correctly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474793-rb26-head-build/#findComment-7884180
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, klutched said:

My heads being done atm for my RB34 running a precision 7675. It has the following:

Ferrea os valves, bronze guides, kelford beehive springs and ti retainers, race port and just general stuff like a deck, seat cut, valve seals etc. 

If you're going to port it definitely get the lumps removed on the exhaust side and smooth out the bowls. My machinist calls that his street port. It's around $800 for the street porting if I remember correctly

Thats fantastic, thank you so much. I spoke to a head machinist company, and they pretty much had said what you said about decking/seat/angles etc etc.

What cams did you choose just out of curiosity? Feel free to PM me if you like. I'm possibly going to go for 280/280, but not 100% sure yet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474793-rb26-head-build/#findComment-7884201
Share on other sites

You're on the waiting list as well. I've been recommended the 182-SE type that will be available Nov. Might work out as I intend on doing other things while my motors being built.

How difficult was it to remove the AC lines and refit them for your bay respray? I'm actually thinking the same, although I have ABS, so that might be a bit of a pain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474793-rb26-head-build/#findComment-7884348
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Predator1 said:

You're on the waiting list as well. I've been recommended the 182-SE type that will be available Nov. Might work out as I intend on doing other things while my motors being built.

How difficult was it to remove the AC lines and refit them for your bay respray? I'm actually thinking the same, although I have ABS, so that might be a bit of a pain.

Nah a/c was easy, there wasnt any gas in em so just popped em off pulled the boots off and the painters taped it all up. I pulled my brake lines out as well. Just have to rebleed them when its closer to driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474793-rb26-head-build/#findComment-7884424
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...