Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Team.

 

First time posting after many years out of the gtr scene and now looking to get back into it. Been hunting for a while for a 32 and looked at a few, but finally Found one that I’m pretty interested in and have just had a compression and leak down test completed on the motor. Hoping to get some advise or feedback. So thanks to all in advance!

 

Motor in the cars a reasonably freshly built. 2.8 stroker. 

 

compression came back at a consistent 130 across all cylinders.

leakdown results as follows.

 

Cylinder 1 - 18%

cylinder 2 - 22%

cylinder 3 - 13%

cylinder 4 - 13%

cylinder 5 - 18%

cylinder 6 - 22%

 

motors done around 2k km from being built, over last couple of years so not driven often. Spoke with mechanic who did testing and he said these numbers where ok, but they seem a bit high/all over the place to me.

 

Any help, greatly appreciated.

 

can provide more details on motor build or other info if needed?

 

cheers.

O.

 

Edited by .obes.

Leakdown more than 5% is sub par.

I would have expected more like 160 on the compressions.

To my way of thinking these numbers are not good for a built engine with only 2k on it.

Was engine cold  when leak down done. 

Mine has big overlap so dynamic compression test only good for comparing other cylinders.

After around 3000km since overhaul leak down is between 1 and 2% on mine.

I would keep looking if I was you.

 

Thanks for replies guys. Cam is a cam tec 413b. 270 duration. 242.50. 112lsa 10.8mm lift.

was told by mechanic who checked the motor that compression good and in line with where it should be due to motor build and cams/top end. But felt leak down wasn't right? He did say as the vehicle spent alot of time sitting round since being built valves may not being seated/sealing right? Something along those lines.

Haven't seen the car in person as it's interstate but am going to inspect next week.

Car currently on e85 running 470hp at wheels on 23psi with hks gtss turbos.

Engine was built by a reputable shop. Compression check was done warm and cold but I'm unsure of leak down.
 

Is there a process of elimination to determine if leak down results are through top end?

 

Appreciate the replies.

Edited by .obes.

There's really 2 options.  The valves are leaking, or the rings are.  On a built engine it is far more likely that the rings didn't get a good bed in than it is that the valves are leaky on all cylinders.  Unless the guy who did the head needs a kick in the nuts.

12 hours ago, .obes. said:

 

Is there a process of elimination to determine if leak down results are through top end?

 

 

Experienced operator should be able to tell by listening (with stethoscope if available)

These are the numbers for my RB25DET with 143,000km (at least) before I broke some ring lands and went RB30/25 (NB at this point it was running ok...but it didn't last!)

 

2012.04.06 EHD341 Leak Down 001.bmp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...