Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm not exactly new to skyline ownership (x2 R32 GTST's x3 R33 GTST's X1 R32 GTR), however I've been away skyline ownership coming close to 7 years now.....the joys of getting married and having kids etc,however, I'm finally looking to get back into it.

The problem is since I've been away the price of GTR's have trippled in some cases so sadly they are out of reach for me (wish I kept my GTR!) and although RWD can be fun I much prefer 4WD.

After looking online I noticed many owners were adopting the R34 GT-Four coupe as a base case since this has the 4wd drivetrain... I'm not sure how rare/common these are Australia, however I'm from the UK and have only come across one so I figured you Guys and Gals would be in a better position to help fill in the gaps in terms of knowledge so exuse me for 'dumb questions' which will now follow.

 

1) Does the GT-four use the same 4wd system as the R34 GTR?... I've read somewhere it doesn't and in terms its ability it is very 'basic'.... is this true?

2) Does the GT-four use the same suspension setup as the R34 GTR?... I've read reports the fronts are the same, however the rears is a GTT setup rather than GTR?

3) Does the GT-four come with LSD?...or was this a factory option?...what Diffs from other skylines 'bolt in'?

4) Does the GT-four in Manual form use the same gearbox as the R32/R33 GTR?.. unlike the R34 GTR I understand it has a  5 speed box

5) I would like to built an RB30 to drop it over time, however, I have seen various posts on here of people running a low boost RB25DE+T Neo using stock parts i.e injectors,AFM, ECU Etc.Have people managed to run this setup on a factory R34 GTT ECU at say 7 psi reliably? I understand the ideal choice would be to run something like a nistune, however I was just curious for a low boost setup.

6)  anything else thatsworth knowing?

 

Thank you in advance

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475642-school-me-on-the-r34-gt-four/
Share on other sites

6. There was 3408 produced (351 known manual coupes) and the ENR34 was available as the 25GT FOUR (sedan/coupe auto and manual), 25GT-X FOUR (sedan auto) and 25GT FOUR L Selection (sedan, auto or manual)

You can see the differences in specs between these varieties here:

Series 1 4 Door, 2 Door
Series 2 (although there are no manual coupes)

That's all I got.

  • Like 1

I believe theyre pretty much the same as your usual GTS/T but with the added 4WD system which is different to a GTR and as we're talking about the R34, should come without HICAS unlike other Skylines.

 

I've heard mixed things about the suspension aswell much like you said. I think the front is GTR but GTST can fit also somehow and rear is GTST aswell.

 

Not sure about LSDs and gearbox is different. Ratios are different for better acceleration being for non turbo and also weaker apparently but guessing internals are still similar to GTSTs so should still be pretty solid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...