Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My compliance officer does not remove the FRONT doors of cefiros, however the rears are removed as it is easier to fit the bars that way.

As far as cost for paperwork etc is concerned that will vary from state to state, as some will require full written reports etc.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guys

Re side intrusion bars - give ISASO (on the web) a call, I got my bars for my R32 GTR from them and with freight to canberra it cost me $280.  It is a very easy job to fit them your self, but you will need some basic tools and a welder.  

It is very easy to do - I did both my doors in about 3 1/2 - 4 hours (having no idea where to start!!)  do a search on 15 yr old compliance (or something like that) and you will find a detailed thread I made.

enjoy.

do they mount inside near the door catch? so u didn't need to paint the door skin? what about the inside of the doors, btw mig or spot weld?

You my friend are a complete tool.

c'mon mate, ur not even going to give a reason why i'm a tool?

  • 3 weeks later...

sorry kill HSV

i think that you need to read up on some import stuff

for you to suggest that STAGEA man is in the wrong forum proves your lack of knowledge, seeing as a stagea is basically a skyline station wagon.

Also dont **** with Side intrusion bars, because not everyone gets killed if you are t boned. Just pay the money and stop complaining.

sorry kill HSV

i think that you need to read up on some import stuff

for you to suggest that STAGEA man is in the wrong forum proves your lack of knowledge, seeing as a stagea is basically a skyline station wagon.  

Also dont **** with Side intrusion bars, because not everyone gets killed if you are t boned. Just pay the money and stop complaining.

actually yes i did know they were on the same platform otherwise this wouldn't be possible

10364r34_wagon.jpg

(Without heaps of work), they may be on the same platform but their chalk and cheese, family wagon vs. performance car.

i'm pretty sure all the stageas come as auto, so not intended as a sports car.

how can u say that not everyone gets killed? facts?

i also hear that a select number come with the RB26DETT engine in them, that is in no way a family wagon.

and if side intrusion bars save oner person there worthwhile. that 1 person may be you or someone you care for.

if you cannot afford 200-300 for 2 bars i sugest you sell your car now as sports cars arnt a cheap toy.

actually yes i did know they were on the same platform otherwise this wouldn't be possible

(Without heaps of work), they may be on the same platform but their chalk and cheese, family wagon vs. performance car.

i'm pretty sure all the stageas come as auto, so not intended as a sports car.

how can u say that not everyone gets killed? facts?

Hrmm. I'm with some people that has already replied.. You my friend need to get your facts straight. Stagea also comes in manual (expensive tho) and also there are the 260rs versions which are RB26DETT in the wagon (which to my knowledge only comes in manual). I definitely would not call a 260rs a family wagon... :)

Hrmm. I'm with some people that has already replied.. You my friend need to get your facts straight.  Stagea also comes in manual (expensive tho) and also there are the 260rs versions which are RB26DETT in the wagon (which to my knowledge only comes in manual).  I definitely would not call a 260rs a family wagon... :)

mine is the 260...and i`m the one he(kill hsv) was referring to in the first place...

as some one else has pointed out this guy`s a tosser....and he`ll be driving a GTR ..soon...glad i live in brisbane

  • 1 month later...

well, most '80s and earlier model cars released in australia didnt' have side intrusion bars in the doors. My mums ford laser doesn't, my GSR Cordia doesn't - it's a safety thing obviously, but i can understand why some people might want to skimp on them.

while on the topic of side intrusion bars, do 4 door cars such as the 4dr R32 skyline that i have coming over - do the rear doors need them aswell as the fronts?

Yeah these bars sound great until you,ve seen a passenger seat sliced nearly in two horizontally by the  u beaut side intrusion bar after a side impact. I,m sure that would,ve saved the passenger.......................... SUFFERING!

who the hellinstalled the bar? was it welded in or just riveted?

steve

Yeah these bars sound great until you,ve seen a passenger seat sliced nearly in two horizontally by the  u beaut side intrusion bar after a side impact. I,m sure that would,ve saved the passenger.......................... SUFFERING!

umm funny you should say that, in my experience side intrusion bars do a pretty good job of keeping another car out of the passenger seat

IMG_2735.jpg

Last temptation..........If you remove the door trim and remove the plastic liner......you should be able to spot a large rectangular bar running horizontally across your door.

Alternatively, you may be able to see rivets on the door near the latch........they often rivet them in to ensure it stays still whilst welding.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...