Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Hopefully someone is able to assist me or point me in the right direction, as to where the ATF Temp Sensor is on a R33 GTST?

There is a possibility that mine is rooted, and trying to locate one to purchase, and also will require to know where it is located on the box. 

Information seems a bit difficult to find. Or i am using the incorrect words to search. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475741-atf-temp-sensor-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

So from some information that i have located, leads me to believe that the temp sensor is located on the valvebody.

So immediately i thought f**k yeah, if mine is f**ked as that will be fun to change. 

The reason for my query, is that my gearbox is registering a fault somewhere, where it goes into 'limp mode' and wont shift into D4, when driving with overdrive switch ON.

The simple turn the car off and back on though resets it and i am fine after that.  But as you can imagine, its quite dangerous, especially if you are on the highway and nowhere to pull overly safely.  Fun times.

So with my current issue the troubleshooting manual i have found indicates the probable causes in order as follows below:

1.       Throttle Sensor

2.       Inhibitor switch

3.       Revolution sensor and speed senor

4.       Shift Solenoid A

5.       Overrun clutch solenoid

6.       Control valve assembly

7.       Fluid temperature Sensor

8.       Line pressure

 

I am glad the the most probable things are the easiest to change, and hopefully it will be sorted before i get to number 4.

 

yeah reading up on it earlier i had located some info that mentions this.

 

Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor and solenoid valve are together as one unit, and are installed to the solenoid body.

Hopefully its not this, but something that i will be able to complete myself.  i have only had the pan off the transmission off like 3 times already within the last month.  Whats another time.  

 

So bit more of an update.  I had a spare THrottle position Sensor, and a previous shit attempt at re-wiring a new plug onto it ( previous plug was f**ked)  Noticed that i had only twisted the wires together, and wasnt the best connection.

So i had re-wired the throttle switch plug wires - ( the one that has A/T control) soldered and heat shrinked. 

TPS set at .48v  - may require to adjust idle slightly as its now idling at 1000rpm, but car seems to be running okay so far.

Will give it time though as the issue with it not going into 4th was intermittment.  

Thanks  for the responses.  But yeah if all fails.  will be looking for manual conversion kit. 

  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like the tps and soldering wires as opposed to twisting them has done the trick..

All those posts that I had seen where people having auto issues, not locking, or not going into d4 with overdrive on..

Check out your tps first..

And read the gearbox link I had included.. will rule out a hefty bill replacing shit where it may not be the cause at all..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...