Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a problem at work the other day, and had a pretty simple fix...then that night was dreaming about my favourite subject :BIG brakes :whackit:

Anyway with problems of work fresh in my mind, i thought about another advantage of running bigger rotors which on paper perhaps makes sense, but have no idea if their is a real world difference.

Im about to buy a new set of 2-pce rotors for my car, and was going to use DBA 5000, Pt No. 5600.1 which are 324 x 30mm thk rotors.

Obviously being 2pce they will be lighter then my current 1pce rotors and should cool better so its all good. So from a thermal perspective im not concerned about having to go bigger.

However if you have a larger rotor then the friction point of the pad onto the disc is going to be further from the disc centre. So that means for the same brake pedal/caliper pistons force exerted on the rotor you will be able to apply more torque to the spinning rotor, giving you superior stopping power/control?!?!?!?!

Imagine you bike wheel spinning, it takes less effort to stop the spinning wheel if you cusp your hands over the tyre as opposed to an inch away from the spline that the wheels spns on. Kinda obvious but i had never considered it before when lookiggn at rotor sized etc etc. :)

So looking at the HSV rotor 343 x 32mm thk, may mean a custom hat...and i will need a custom mount for the caliper anyway? The place im speaking to feels they will be able to get 355mm rotor under the 17" wheel.

So basically if temps isnt a problem, is there any added control, stopping power advantage using a 343/355 rotor.... and is it worth the expense :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47599-larger-front-rotors/
Share on other sites

Hi Roy, the leverage effect of larger diameter rotors (even with the same pad dimensions) is quite noticeable. You don't get something for nothing though, you do loose a bit of pedal feel. I am still using standard GTST callipers with standard dimension DBS slotted rotors on ours. The tyres are limiting factor, as to how well it stops, and that's using Yokohama A032R's in the soft compound ie; even after 10 laps I can still lock the wheels with excessive brake application. :)

SK, don't say stuff like that......Roy has a massive brake fetish and you're just spoiling it. Make something up, go on, be nice.:rofl:

I'd comment but it would all be theory and would have suggested more feel rather than less, so I'm all ears since my initial instinct were wrong.

From a cycling perspective, since I was a pro cyclist, most good riders only use the front brake and stiffer calipers and NC machined rims have improved feel immeasurably, but the introduction of discs for MTB has been treated like the second coming of Peter Brock. Not comparing apples with apples but it is a massive diameter reduction and swept area reduction. We used to have big probs with melting tyre glue for the "singles" that use glue and pressure to hold them on during long mountain descents. Result was a rolloff from the rim and sudden pain....everywhere.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...