Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was changing plugs and bit of plastic sucker which was from the spark plug loom fell into the hole

 

can’t get it out using vacume or gum so question is, would i just start the car and hope it burns or it can do damage?

 

i am scared it may get stuck between valve and valve seat or i could removr plug, diconnect fuel pump and crank the engine to force it out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476135-bit-in-sparknplug-hole/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Agree with GTSBoy ,Nizmo Man just got lucky I reckon. This is what I found in an engine that came in for repair.

 

March18s6 054.jpg

wow and engine had survived?

 

I bought a borescope camera to check inside there and try once again with vacumme and if not then will do compression without plug and if not then leave it for engine to take care of it .

i just want to be on safe side

 

whilst on the topic, what would you put on injector oring to make it slide in and out, would wd40 damage it ?

Use an empty Vacuum cleaner with a small long hose tapped to it. L9ng so u don't drop it in and empty so u can tell when u got it.
Or rotate the engine till the exhaust valve is open and blow it out with a compressor.[emoji39]

16 minutes ago, Slap said:

Use an empty Vacuum cleaner with a small long hose tapped to it

I would attempt this method, vacuum doesn't need to be empty. just cut up a pair of the girlfriends/wifes pantyhose and use as a filter in the hose (vacuum hose not small hose)

Edited by Rusty Nuts
  • Like 1
11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Vaseline.  Or there is proper o-ring lube available.

 

10 hours ago, drifter17a said:

How would you remove it though as you can’t get vasaline there

 

you need something that sprays

 

Vaseline was to do with the question about injector o-rings.  Which I would have thought would be quite clear when I mentioned f**king o-ring lube.

As to the piece of plastic......close the engine, start it up, go on with your life.

  • Like 1

If you are turbo it will probably create a problem depending on the plastic.
If it's really soft and breaks up easy as maybe ok. But if it's a solid firm plastic don't put it through a turbo.
To many possible problems including residual melting plastic that could screw the exhaust turbine wheels performance and functionality , waste gate & seats , also for na valve seats but that would burn away eventually unless the plastic was tough enough to bend so thin (doubtfull).

If your na turn it over do the the plug out and it may shoot out plug hole.

Bah humbug.  Any plastic will melt &/or burn away within a very short time.  If it manages to make it out the exhaust while still solid and passes through the turbine at idle, precisely NOTHING will happen.  How fast do you think the turbine will be spinning at idle?

Hahaha it's not about how long the plastic lasts. It's about the risk. What if it does catch something.
If it's coil pack rubber it could be to chunky to pass without breaking down.
Initial start will move it before it burns it.
There's an about 89 % chance you can start it fine turbo.
About 99.5% if it's na.

I just think that it can come out another way risk free.

I would if stuck at this point take out the plug disconnect car (No firing up)
And crank it a few times. Then I would expect the piece to have moved out of the cylinder so it won't fry in there when started ......depending how big the piece is.
But I would probably still be vaccumming and missing the vacuum even using it while cranking with plug out.

Hahaha it's not about how long the plastic lasts. It's about the risk. What if it does catch something.
If it's coil pack rubber it could be to chunky to pass without breaking down.
Initial start will move it before it burns it.
There's an about 89 % chance you can start it fine turbo.
About 99.5% if it's na.

I just think that it can come out another way risk free.

I would if stuck at this point take out the plug disconnect car (No firing up)
And crank it a few times. Then I would expect the piece to have moved out of the cylinder so it won't fry in there when started ......depending how big the piece is.
But I would probably still be vaccumming and missing the vacuum even using it while cranking with plug out.
Hehehe they are my guestemate percentages.

if were talking a piece of the porcine insulator from the spark plug - get it out and don't start the car before you clear it.

if were talking a small piece of soft plastic then meh.

if your worried about your turbo blades, remove the actuator from the exhaust flap and leave the flap wide open. the exhaust gas will take the path of least resistance and there is a verry good chance it will go out the wastegate hole not the turbine blades. 

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, Unkn0wn said:

if your worried about your turbo blades, remove the actuator from the exhaust flap and leave the flap wide open. the exhaust gas will take the path of least resistance and there is a verry good chance it will go out the wastegate hole not the turbine blades. 

Yeah, probably not.  The gas might be willing to take the left turn to go out the wastegate port, but anything solid will be more than happy to separate from the gas flow and continue going in the direction it was originally travelling - which is towards the turbine.

And I would still be fine with that.  A blown ceramic turbine is a fine excuse to upgrade the turbo, on the <1% chance that it somehow manages to break.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...