Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, Ive read a tonne of posts about this, but most seem to either be about race car camber or lean into a different direction.

So quick info about my situation, driving to work in an r34 25gt, and my front tyre busted, massive wear on the inside, got new tyres and an alignment, the mech said he could only get the camber to -2°, but as mine is a daily and a 25gt, I'm not looking for much camber, would like to get back to even wear on tyres maybe -.75°/-1°.  

Been looking at adjustable upper camber arms, (just incase I ever get rims or decide to lower it) but wanted reviews before I buy, just incase some are notorious for easy breaks, squeaking/clunking after a short time etc

The ones I've looked at are:

SRI - $220

Gktech - $349 (so far thinking these ones) 

Zss - $459

Cusco - $479(heard they are really good for price) 

Driftwork - $216

Hard race - $499

I looked at ikeya formula, but too expensive for a 25gt. Has anyone had good/bad cases with any of the above arms?

Sorry if I've forgotten any details to include for further help. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476716-r34-adjustable-camber-arm-reviews/
Share on other sites

Completely stock height and wheels, I asked the mech what was causing the negative camber and he couldn't tell me, just said I need aftermarket adjustment parts, I asked if anything was bent or seemed damaged and he said no. So how would I go about finding what's caused it? I've never really worked on suspension so I'm outta my element. 

The car has *some* adjustability and there's bushes you can get from Whiteline or Superpro that will adjust camber that is more than enough for a stock height car. They are cheaper, legal, more compliant and overall a better solution that what you listed..

That said, there IS a problem if you can't get less than 2deg neg camber on a stock car. Fixing this is definitely what you would/should/must do first before buying aftermarket arms to sort it out.

This is definitely a "Find someone who knows what the underside of these cars should look like" situation

Ok ill call the smash repairs and see where they get chassis straightening done, but cars never had a crash or anything so not sure if chassis is damaged but worth a look, I might even get a 2nd place to try and align it, as I read a post on SAU where someone had the same deal, 1 place couldn't align it, but another could, the mech could be trying to stitch me up for extra work. 

We have have a 25GT with standard suspension, the front and rear camber is pretty close to neutral with little to no wear on the inside.  Common for cars that are lowered on springs or coliovers to exert excessive rear camber, is your issue on the front or rear?

JGTC it's front suspension that's my issue, but I may see if I can get the stuff gtsboy stated above checked out, cause I've never had a problem with wheel alignments till now, recently replaced the right control arm as the ball joint was buggered, and the radius arm bushes. So ill get the other bushes and arms checked, but thought they would notice something wrong when doing the alignment, i also jacked the car up and had a look and couldn't see any other damage, besides what I've gotten fixed. 

That's what I'm thinking, had a look myself (I'm a fkn noob) noticed the radius arm bushes and ball joint, but didn't notice anything else, really hoping I fall in the category of having a shite mechanic, will book in with another place, ask for stats of camber, toe etc, and post for you pros to help me, appreciate the help from all, glad I didn't buy the arms. This is why I love SAU. 

I run around 2.75 deg neg front camber on a daily driven street car, and i have very little issue with inside tyre wear. Toe, worn components or bent arms/chassis are likely to be the real issue.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

So I was a victim of a shoddy mechanic, went to a new place today for an alignment, and afterwards they said they got it down to -1°. Which I'm happy with. Turns out the toe was the culprit. Glad I asked SAU before buying camber arms. Cheers fellas. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...