Jump to content
SAU Community

Spark plug change now engine misfire

AnalStick

By AnalStick,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

AnalStick Enthusiast

AnalStick

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so i have an update i took my valve cover off and i found coolant in the second sparkplug chamber, i cleaned it up thinking i just spilled some in when i took the valve cover on so i put my old sparkplugs in put the car back together and took it for a drive, it started misfiring again after about 20 mins this time so i drove back home and took off the valve cover and then again i have found coolant in the second sparkplug chamber, 

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, AnalStick said:

so i have an update i took my valve cover off and i found coolant in the second sparkplug chamber, i cleaned it up thinking i just spilled some in when i took the valve cover on so i put my old sparkplugs in put the car back together and took it for a drive, it started misfiring again after about 20 mins this time so i drove back home and took off the valve cover and then again i have found coolant in the second sparkplug chamber, 

Well thats good you found it but a mystery as to how it gets in there.

now

get poking anal stick (to find the answer.)

AnalStick Enthusiast

AnalStick

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, Ben C34 said:

Well thats good you found it but a mystery as to how it gets in there.

now

get poking anal stick (to find the answer.)

im going to run it without the valve cover on to see if anything is leaking

AnalStick Enthusiast

AnalStick

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Coolant in the spark plug bores can only get there from a cracked head.

So there is no coolant on the spark plugs, just where the coil is sitting I highly doubt I cracked the head when tightening the plugs hahah 

Edited by AnalStick
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

OK....Riddle me this. Where is the coolant coming from, to get from the inside of the head to the outside of the head?  Where is the nearest coolant?  Is it squirting from a hose and somehow finding its way under the coil cover?  No, of course it isn't. The coolant is running in galleries in the head. There is either a crack, or a welch plug is leaking.

AnalStick Enthusiast

AnalStick

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: so now car is misfiring on startup and engine light comes on right away, but after i go to second gear the misfire stops and wont come back. car drives completely fine but has the engine light on and then when i restart my car later in the day this happens again but i drive it and the misfire stops

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

I had similar issues with a cracked block, multiple times. What was happening is on low rpm the coolant pressure was enough to get into the bores and cause a misfire. Rev the engine enough and combustion pressure was enough to push combustion gas into the coolant, so while it wouldn't miss... it was very obviously pressurizing the coolant.

This will get worse before it gets better. Pepare yourself for replacement engine time.

Misfires and Coolant being in places it should not be is never a good combination.

AnalStick Enthusiast

AnalStick

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I had similar issues with a cracked block, multiple times. What was happening is on low rpm the coolant pressure was enough to get into the bores and cause a misfire. Rev the engine enough and combustion pressure was enough to push combustion gas into the coolant, so while it wouldn't miss... it was very obviously pressurizing the coolant.

This will get worse before it gets better. Pepare yourself for replacement engine time.

Misfires and Coolant being in places it should not be is never a good combination.

so the coolant is only getting into the chamber when i take apart the hoses so its just leaking in there. i am pretty sure i have found the issue i decided to unplug all the coilpacks and one of the plug connectors wires wernt in the connector all the way so i took it out and it fell apart in my hands

20190428_144243.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...