Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea


Recommended Posts

Hey guys

So.. i was at the auctions and bought an impounded auto stagea that had burned through a monster burnout and sitting on the rims, and now plan to build a decent streeter out of it, - probably a bad decision but lets play the mod game as the engine started and sounds strong ?

So.. at the moment it has fmic, splitfires, 3inch exhaust, stock turbo, ecu etc...

So.. what i have is an RB30 bottom end in good nick, a hks gtrs and a gt30 rear housing.. so with E85 and not wanting to rebuild auto boxs what would be a good street combo?

Im not looking to rev too high as im mostly wanting strong torque from 2-4k like a Vl turbo for pulling trailers and cruising.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saw your message (have replied) before this post. Splitfires, a FMIC and a 3in exhaust are a good start. Also assume its RWD rather then AWD? BTW whatever you do it will be a gas guzzler compared to a Golf TDI!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shes an rs4 series 1, yeah certainly chewing fuel, its a bit of a mystery as it looks setup for drifting, i spent long time removing rubber from the back doors so shes got enough power for a skid ?

20190424_222320.jpg

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • don't do. Fricken typos. Make me look like the sheeple.
    • I could show you guys photos of wrap having been removed properly, and where the wrap was removed, paint underneath is perfect. Sections of the vehicle didn't have wrap on it, and in those areas, the paint work is destroyed because of how long it had been sitting in the hot QLD sun for many many many years. Wrap even still looked decent. Good quality wrap, and removing it properly shouldn't rip off the paint work, unless the paintwork was already shot to pieces before hand.
    • Any write ups on replacing the window motor?  I've never messed with them (or window regulators) before.   Ever since I've had the car, the driver window would roll down just fine, but most often I'd have the try a few times to get it to go up.  As soon as it started to go up, it always goes up smoothly and quietly.  Seemed like a bad switch.  But now, its stuck in the fully down position and won't come back up.  I get =12/-12V coming out of the relay/amp when pressing the switch up/down.  So the switch and amp are working.  Just a bad motor.  I've also applied 12V directly to the motor and nada.   Any help on replacing the motor?  Can the glass and regulator stay in, and only replace the motor?  Or not possible?  Thanks!!!
    • You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase. They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars. They are only incorrectly known as swaybars. They do do anything to prevent "sway". The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars. So, take your incorrect infopinion away.
×
×
  • Create New...