Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got 3 turbo manifolds ceramically coated at PowerKote a coupla months ago. Prices were pretty good and the guy is very friendly to work with. You cant do a manifold in silver because its not suited for super high temps and the alloy in the coating basically "boils out" as the guy said.

did u get an SS Autochrome manifold in the group buy Leo? I have one on order from avi in the current group buy to arrive in a few weeks. Can you please PM the number of the coating guy or give me a buzz? I want to get a few things done at the same time.

Maybe we can all do a group deal, as it is much cheaper the more you get done!! Where did you get yours done again Matt H? From memory he got about 6-8 items done and it was only $400 or something.

Hey Andrew, yeah I got 1 from the group buy, and got it machined/coated. Its still sitting in my garage in glad wrap! Been like that for 2 months now! If you wanna check manifold itself and/or the coating job out, gimme a yell.

But yeah group deal is the best way to go, singlely he quoted about 170ish, and cos I got 3 done, he did them for 120 with a dump pipe job thrown in for free!

He's currently moving places, and I lost his card. However look it up in the whitepages, thats where he is!

Yeah Andrew, I got 9 things done at the same time and it was $440 (at PowerKote).

I had my exhaust manifold heatshield done in the silver (isn't as shiny as chrome but still comes up nice) and it has handled the heat no prob's so far. I saw John's exhaust manifold (DRIFT6) after it had copped HUGE amounts of heat (sustained big rev's and big boost) and it had discoloured quite badly, the coating was still ok but it had changed to a dull silver.

Yeah Andrew, I got 9 things done at the same time and it was $440 (at PowerKote).  

I had my exhaust manifold heatshield done in the silver (isn't as shiny as chrome but still comes up nice) and it has handled the heat no prob's so far. I saw John's exhaust manifold (DRIFT6) after it had copped HUGE amounts of heat (sustained big rev's and big boost) and it had discoloured quite badly, the coating was still ok but it had changed to a dull silver.

John Munroe just got all his stuff back for the drag car. Ask him. He may see this thread. Looked great in brightish silver look. Is on everything hot.

Would the same stuff be ok on a street car though?? I dont wanna fork out $$ to have my manifold/dump coated to have it peel off....

Do they coat the inside as well as outside? Ive never had it done, so im just worried if its in the inside of the manifold, what happens when it peels? Goes into the turbs = blown seals??

Might have to do some more research.....

i know that the manifold on drift6 and many otherw was done somewhere local i just need to confirm where and see if there are anyothers

I spoke to powerkote and they told me they are trialing the bright silver/chrome look on maniolds but as i said i know of heaps that have been done

  • 3 months later...

Hey all,

Is there any more info on this subject?

I just got my twin dump pipes (custom made in QLD), and I want to get them HPC coated before getting them installed.

Does anyone have any contact details for Powerkote?... or recommend anyone in the City or southern area?

Cheers,

Rob

I had my new manifold done by PowerKote a couple of months ago. Cost $200 for the silver over black coating. They no longer have the peeling problem, as they use a different technique. Call Laurie on 8354 2066 - 6 Reese Ave, Richmond.

Cheers guys for the replies..

Andrew cheers for address, and yep hope that peeling prob is gone that you mentioned Timmy...dont feel like replacing 2 turbos :)

Clint will wait till end of the month, that sounds good let me know. I will not be getting mine coated for a few months anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...