Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I was wondering what peoples experience is with the mechanic checking the machine shop's work after sending the engine off for machining? 

After chatting with a few machine shops, seems it's pretty common practice that the engine is assembled by the mechanic without any of the clearances or other work performed being checked? 

I'm in the process of putting my rb25 together and I'm wondering if I just trust the machine shop, or do I drop something like $2,000 in bore gauges/mics/etc and check everything myself. Note I'm not a mechanic so these specialist tools will spend a lot of time gathering dust :(

43 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I did a bit of googling and couldn't find any place in Sydney that hire out specialist engine building tools. If someone knows of a company that does that I'd be keen. 

They are not specialist tools. Inside and outside micrometer, feeler gauges (which you will have) and as a final check on bearings plastigauge is cheap and accurate.

I never said anything bad about Plastigauge. 

I'd like to for example, check the bores for size, roundness and taper. I can't see me doing that with anything other then a bore gauge. Decent bore gauges go for around $600ish? Then I'll need a set of mic's, so another $400ish? It's starting to add up real quick. Say I want to use a rod bolt stretch gauge, that's another $350ish?

I'd call these tools specialist tools, along with ring cutters, angle gauges,  magnetic deck bridge, magnetic base dial gauge etc etc. Some of these are quite affordable but it all adds up. Maybe they aren't 'specialist tools' but that's the sort of thing I'm referring to. 

Hopefully you can see where I'm coming from and tool hire would make a lot more sense for me in this position. 

I guess I'll keep sniffing around for a hire shop, if not I'll make do with what I have. 

If you are checking an engine you have just opened you will want to check for out of round, taper etc but when you get a block back from the machine shop you can assume that the bores will be round. When you are assembling the motor you are really just checking clearances so you want to measure the bore and the pistons. You will want to measure the ring gap. I haven't built as many engines as others on this forum but I do the basic checks. You can measure the crankshaft, main bearings and rods. I don't even know what a rod bolt stretch gauge is (I always upgrade the rod bolts). I check the fit of the mains and rods with plastigauge.

I own a torque wrench and some sets of feeler gauges and borrow the micrometers (but many hire shops rent them out).

There is a middle path between doing no checks and going to town checking every last detail.

'Twere me, coming from an engineering environment where ISO9001 rules and ruins our lives, if I were getting an engine back from the machine shop, I would want to see the record sheets for the measurements made at the end of the machining processes that shows conformance to the stated requirements.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...