Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

B-man, what rail pressure are you running? this will make a difference.

EG, sard 550cc injectors are rated at 3.0kg rail pressure, at 2.55kg (stock nissan) they are only 510cc.

your formula is basically correct though.

Also, make sure you adjust injector lag time. If you are running Sard 550cc, it is around +0.08ms

how is the idle going? - I forgot to mention on your idle question thread, but have you tried lubricating the AAC vavle? I sprayed a fair bit of WD40 around the adjust screw and it certainly helped (wound in the adjust until the valve was working overtime to control idle, left it go for about a minute, then would the screw back out and it settle things a fair bit:))

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to dig up such a old thread

Where is the injector correction located on the hand controller?

I am installing some 440cc into my R32 and need to change the injector correction so its at least drivable to get it tuned?

My plan is set the PFC to default, and then add the injector correction so it will hopefully be drivable

Any info much apprieceated

Chris

Mine is at 60% Chris and I'm sure it is on standard fuel pressure coz I set the nismo fuel reg at stock pressure,that is unless when I got it tuned they wound more into it.

What I noticed with the standard tune on the PFC and gtr injectors was it ran very very rich and did'nt mind the extra fuel when cold but as soon as it got some heat into it it missed coughed and spluttered and stalled.

So as a fix so I could get it to the tuning shop I went into the ign/inj correction settings and put the inj to 0.650 and it was still rich but safe to drive.

R31 is on the money, the INJ/IGN is the one you want - just divide the stock injector capacity with the new injector capacity, the resultant 0.xx will equate to the percentage you will need.

Also, you have an "injector" menu, you need to put in the correction there too - this is for closed loop (idle, cruise) and cold start correction - you will also see a lag correction, if you have a look here: http://www.ap-engineering.co.jp/el/inj_top.htm from memory they have the lag times and injector capacities for stock (and aftermarket) injectors including the relevant fuel rail pressures. The lag correction is to make sure the injectors fire at the right time.

Most tuners I have been to dont even seem to realise it is there, but it made a big difference to idle and cruise with my 550cc.

Oh, and lastly, the IGN/INJ correction is volatile, so when you stop the car, you will have to re-enter the correction until it is tuned. Its a very handy feature for the ign side of things too - if detonation is up a bit, on a hot day, bad fuel whatever, just pull a degree or two across the map to prevent expensive problems.

Dont be scared to do the correction and drive the car - just dont thrash it :P and keep an eye on the knock.

GL

Cheers guys, looks like a work around thats not too hard

At least it should get me to the dyno etc

I just found a english PFC hand controller manual which takes you through pretty much everyhting you need to know, i will post a link when i can find it again!

Chris

I just found a english PFC hand controller manual which takes you through pretty much everyhting you need to know, i will post a link when i can find it again!

Please do!

Richard

That's good but unfortunately as it's for a 13B a lot of the stuff isn't relavent. Does anyone have one for the RB26DETT?

Richard

Apparently thats the only full english manual out, as it was done for the american market

Let me know if you find any other manuals

There are quite a few on www.apexi-usa.com

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...