Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the good news is a bad ground might stop something working, but it won't break it. Even if a short is caused you should only lose a fuse, not the control unit.

There is a ground from the body to the rear subframe that is often removed or broken, particularly if the subframe has been out. That ground missing is the most common cause of the error you saw, but not it this case it seems

Duncan thanks for your input throughout, in fact I was up late trouble shooting and wow I’m glad I did that I forsure would have wrecked another ecu. I attached the workshop manual page with the procedure I followed for code 24. I got to testing the coninutuity and the numbers were super dodgy sometime getting low reading but jumping all over. Sure enough rear ground was completely loose at the frame but still making somewhat of a connection. Would have eventually ate my ets cu. the rust was misleading but helped me fix my washer fluid issue. Hope this thread helps lots of people with code 24. Follow the manual it never lies.

FC9FA7AE-151F-4A72-9169-5D0CA526AE96.png

Edited by MoMnDadGTR
  • Like 1

In fact I was so happy I found the issue, I took my car for a good rip this morning in the snow lol and did some slides at the shop, thanks again boys.

  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, PanoramaLife said:

Duncan,thanks for sharing

Yes smart guy has helped me lots much appreciated.  the manual is good for trouble shooting. Having good grounds, good ets connections, clean abs sensors, bleed atessa, replaced ets control unit(used) check for codes, address codes.  topped it off with a du-lock v2/quaife diff on circuit setting and cars a totally different machine with no issues anymore. grounds were a big one as well, cleaning contact points with new ground cables on rear diff to subframe, battery/frame/engine, added a engine to frame ground where a/c used to bolt to engine, ground from firewall to engine.  

forgot to add and also covered a zillion times but make sure your tps set to .4 max .5.  This also threw a 4wd code on my ets unit when I replaced it. I set to .4 and she was good to go. I did this with car not running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...