Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Righto... I pick My RB31DET up in a few days and this is my plan :

Change oil/filter 2-3 times first 5000kms

Main thing is dont over rev for first 500 kms

Put eng under moderate load (ie accelerate from 40 to 80 a few times)

aviod prolonged idle first 100 kms

first 1000kms use any "plain" non friction modified oil

after that change to good oil....

Happy running in :cheers:

Guest Moses

I will be doing this very soon , have been told to keep revs low (less than 4k)

but not to drive like a pu55y as you need to load it up to bed in properly. I wont have any

boost below 4k so I guess I can just keep my foot down and drive normally.

Will only take 1000k's using mineral oil first then semi-synthetic.

Ive got a wolf3D v4, however its been tuning for my 2litre. Do you think i should put the stock computer back in to run it in, or get the wolf tuned to 3500rpm, and then later after its run in tune it properly. Or do you think the wolf at the moment will be fine for running in the moment?

Ive got a wolf3D v4, however its been tuning for my 2litre. Do you think i should put the stock computer back in to run it in, or get the wolf tuned to 3500rpm, and then later after its run in tune it properly. Or do you think the wolf at the moment will be fine for running in the moment?

I'm interested in this as my EMS is tuned for a 300hp RB20 using stock injectors.

so i'm wondering how it will go when i start it up with 700cc injectors

when you start it up with those bigger injectors id say it will hardly run and will be rich as a pig!!! IF it is tuned for 370cc injectors and running the power you say the injectors will be pulsing for a very long time to try and get the fuel through, when you put the bigger ones in the will flow twice as much but still be open for the same time equaling twice as much fuel!!!!

Run them in hard to go hard i say my run in will be on the dyno to ramp ups then a full power run on low boost is my run in process!!!

I would assume the best way to get advice on running in your particular engine is to ask the person who actually built it!

I am not versed in this subject but was told it is something to do with how "loose" it has been built. I would assume that is referring to clearances, so the builder would know best.

But as mentioned above by others, varying load, no high rpm "free revving", no prolonged idling is a good guideline I guess. And obviously using non synthetic oils to begin with.

Not too sure about pulling up hills in tall gears though, might be too much load?

If it was my engine, for peace of mind I would have it done on a dyno. For the amount spent on an engine rebuild a few hundred bucks of dyno time is pittence.

@ R32-GTSTT: I would reccomend using the standard ecu for the run in process.

My best advice would be to swap out all gear that you had, and replace with all std items...ie injectors, afm, etc...then run the std ecu. AFM should be able to keep correct fuelling then.

Saying that mine is being started on a Power FC, then fuelling set up straight away....with a mild tunew for the run in...using all std parts. ie injectors, afm etc...

If you dont have the std gear, make sure you get a tuner to start it and check the mixtures straight away...

a quick note ... Not only big load, but avoid backing off in a hurry. Always slow to build the revs (full throttle, high load) then slow to bring em back down. Dont just jump off the accelerator.

Krawlies Tips For Running In Engines. And hey, if it works on an E5 (possibly the worse engine ever made), its gonna work on an RB :D

My best advice would be to swap out all gear that you had, and replace with all std items...ie injectors, afm, etc...then run the std ecu. AFM should be able to keep correct fuelling then.

Saying that mine is being started on a Power FC, then fuelling set up straight away....with a mild tunew for the run in...using all std parts. ie injectors, afm etc...

If you dont have the std gear, make sure you get a tuner to start it and check the mixtures straight away...

In the event my car starts up, but is too rich... Would it be ok to drive it ~4km to the dyno workshop or not? :D

Heres a slightly off topic query ... How long does it take to be run in on a dyno?

I've heard claims of around 15 minutes to be properly bed in using the slow-power-on, slow-power-off method with a rise of 1k each time (ie: up to 1000rpm, back to idle... up to 2000rpm, back to idle...)

Heres a slightly off topic query ... How long does it take to be run in on a dyno?

I've heard claims of around 15 minutes to be properly bed in using the slow-power-on, slow-power-off method with a rise of 1k each time (ie: up to 1000rpm, back to idle... up to 2000rpm, back to idle...)

Yeah my dyno guy said he can get it run it fairly quick on the dyno.

what is done when it is run in on the dyno? chassis dyno or engine dyno?

is a full power full boost run included?

my dyno shop said they would just chuck the car on the dyno and start ramping it up tuning for full power straight away.. and they've had success at it... but i am VERY uncertain about that method. I'd prefer a nice run in scheme

From what my car will be getting things new except for rods.

Just load it up on the dyno, bed it in and drive away a happy customer

No long running in times or anything like that

This is what will be happening with my car, on advice from Ben@ Racepace, and there is little doubt he knows what he is doing when it comes to this stuff. Certainly take his advice when he gives it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...