Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts4 Auto trans wont go into 3rd or OD


Recommended Posts

Hello so recently my car suddenly just one day refused to go into 4th gear/OD, I thought it was just way too cold and the car couldnt warm up and didnt end up driving it for a month after that. Well I starred driving it again recently and I noticed it slips alot in every gear. Even going from a stop to start it struggles to put itself in 1st and the engine will rev but gains no speed. However when it does go into gear it can hold it fine unless I suddenly rev it to much itll slip out for a second, so I check the trans fluid and its brown so I order some castrol trans fluid after abit of research and drain it and fill it up hoping this would make some sort of difference, well driving it right now it will shift into 1st and 2nd no problem no slip at all on its own or manually. But now when it needs to shift to 3rd itll shift out of 2nd and the engine will rev and rev and not shift to 3rd or 4th at all. I know nothing about transmissions and I couldnt find a whole lot searching for an auto trans,   3rd gear worked every time before but slipped a little occasionaly. Now it wont go into 3rd at all after changing the fluid.  Any help would be appreciated.  I know castrol transmax z is what everyone recommends but I had some castrol import atf for nissans honda toyota etc.  Am not sure if the fluid would make that much difference but like I said. Im clueless with transmissions and couldnt find much info.  

 

 

Edited by TheOrangeSkittle
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Autos are full of black magic and spite. Yours will either worn out friction surfaces, or blocked oil galleries, or stuck pistons/broken springs or a dud solenoid. Or possibly something different.

Automatic trans specialists make money from knowing that no-one can really fix their own auto.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Autos are full of black magic and spite. Yours will either worn out friction surfaces, or blocked oil galleries, or stuck pistons/broken springs or a dud solenoid. Or possibly something different.

Automatic trans specialists make money from knowing that no-one can really fix their own auto.

Yeah was planning on converting to manual sometime and Ig this is gunna be the reason I park it till I save up enough to get that done, I know itd AT LEAST be like 500 dollars just to have a guy open the pan and change a solenoid if its even that,  just so confused why 4th died when it wasnt slipping and nothing was wrong. Just cruising on the highway 3k rpm 3 days a week and then last week it just couldnt go into 4th and then suddenly every gear is slipping crazy bad.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the fluid was brown, probably particulates in there from wearing parts, did you change the filter with the fluid? A blocked filter can cause all sorts of mayhem in an auto box. Personally never understand changing any lubricating fluid without changing filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

If the fluid was brown, probably particulates in there from wearing parts, did you change the filter with the fluid? A blocked filter can cause all sorts of mayhem in an auto box. Personally never understand changing any lubricating fluid without changing filter.

I cant find where the gasket and filter are or what part number it is, I planned on dropping the pan but I have 0 clue where to even get the parts. Searching anything auto for the car brings up manual parts, and also I dont get how just draining the fluid would make me lose 3rd gear entirely when 1st and 2nd work better than ever now and it shifted into 3rd somewhat okay before.  

 

Do 300zx auto trans gaskets and filter fit gts4 auto transmission? I know a lot of parts are interchangeable

Edited by TheOrangeSkittle
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, and remember just changing whats in the pan, is not all the fluid in the system. Could be as little as a third of the fluid in the pan. Too little fluid, Too much fluid, blocked filter can all cause problems.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you think I should also try and replace the solenoids? sorry to ask so many questions, can draining the fluid mess up the solenoids if they were working before?

 

I took out about 4L of fluid and put that much back in, I think that's only half but was hoping it would at least be able to get into 4th with that and id keep doing fluid changes every few months.

Edited by TheOrangeSkittle
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mate, if you don't know the solenoids are rooted, don't change them. If you didn't flush out all the old fluid the first time you just have slightly diluted dirty fluid in there. The solenoids may just be sticking because they are full of shit. Remember low fluid levels cause heat and wear, Too high levels cause foaming, cavitation and wear. If you are not sure of what you are doing get an auto place to flush and change the filter.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am not gunna replace them but if I can get to them easily when I drop the pan I might take them off and clean them and see if that helps, still cant think of why the fluid alone would make 3rd gear not work at all anymore, it shouldnt be worn out its only got 75k km and the fluid I used was castrol import atf which is supposed to meet the reqs for nissans and japanese standards. I took about 4L out and put the same amount back in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, TheOrangeSkittle said:

Am not gunna replace them but if I can get to them easily when I drop the pan I might take them off and clean them and see if that helps, still cant think of why the fluid alone would make 3rd gear not work at all anymore, it shouldnt be worn out its only got 75k km and the fluid I used was castrol import atf which is supposed to meet the reqs for nissans and japanese standards. I took about 4L out and put the same amount back in.

Look in the Stagea section DIY for how to change all of your trans fluid. You will need about 12L. Its not high skill just tedious and potentially messy. The filter is a metal item so you can just take it out and clean it and put it back.

There are magnets at the bottom of the pan so if a lot of metal fragments are stuck to them you might need to look for another box or start that manual conversion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, TheOrangeSkittle said:

Am not gunna replace them but if I can get to them easily when I drop the pan I might take them off and clean them and see if that helps, still cant think of why the fluid alone would make 3rd gear not work at all anymore, it shouldnt be worn out its only got 75k km and the fluid I used was castrol import atf which is supposed to meet the reqs for nissans and japanese standards. I took about 4L out and put the same amount back in.

The type of fluid can affect the operation under certain circumstances, but not outright failure. Before I replaced my valve body with a modded unit, I replaced the fluid with some inexpensive ATF, maybe valvoline. It caused 3rd and 4th gear to flare a lot, especially on downshifts.

In your situation I'd be tempted to look inside the valve body to see if there's any contamination or build up from old fluid like sludge in an engine. The valve body is a made up of 2 plates sandwiched together, which is then bolted to the transmission body.

Pretty tough job if you've not done anything like it though. Looking up at the transmission, it's not obvious which bolts are holding the valve body plates together, and which ones are holding the entire valve body onto the transmission. Oh, and if you get it wrong and try to take out the ones holding the valve body plates together before removing the entire body, the bolts snap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/3/2020 at 7:40 PM, zoomzoom said:

The type of fluid can affect the operation under certain circumstances, but not outright failure. Before I replaced my valve body with a modded unit, I replaced the fluid with some inexpensive ATF, maybe valvoline. It caused 3rd and 4th gear to flare a lot, especially on downshifts.

In your situation I'd be tempted to look inside the valve body to see if there's any contamination or build up from old fluid like sludge in an engine. The valve body is a made up of 2 plates sandwiched together, which is then bolted to the transmission body.

Pretty tough job if you've not done anything like it though. Looking up at the transmission, it's not obvious which bolts are holding the valve body plates together, and which ones are holding the entire valve body onto the transmission. Oh, and if you get it wrong and try to take out the ones holding the valve body plates together before removing the entire body, the bolts snap.

Hello so I still haven't dropped the pan, been way too cold, every shop ive called said clutchs are bad trans is bad need a new one, but lemme summarize when this all started, 4th gear stopped working entirely suddenly, then 3rd 2nd and 1st slipped bad, changed the fluid. 1st and 2nd work fine they have 0 slip, 3rd wont engage BUT if I get the revs to 5.5k it will grab but barely, but from 1k-5k it doesn't do anything acts like its in neutral almost but at 5.5k it will half grab and the car will pull thought opposite should be true if clutchs were bad, should it not slip at higher rpm and grab at lower?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...