Jump to content
SAU Community

RB30 balancer bolt RFT

NZ-GTT

By NZ-GTT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

NZ-GTT Collaborator

NZ-GTT

Posted
Posted (edited)

My 26/30 is about ready to go in and I have been putting off torquing up the crank bolt to 400nm as recommended by Lewis engines on his website.

I started torquing it up in stages and the bolt reached it's yield at 350nm. After that it kept turning. Luckily I had a spare bolt and changed it out and this one torqued up to 400nm. That's Really F***en Tight! I used ARP lube on the first one and the second one went in dry but I assume there was still lube inside the crank. Any thoughts?

 

 

RB30 crank bolt.jpg

Edited by NZ-GTT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479855-rb30-balancer-bolt-rft/
Share on other sites
NZ-GTT Collaborator

NZ-GTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The RB26 is 446 - 544NM for a M18 x 1.5 bolt which is more than the recommended for a grade 10.9 of that size. the rb30 has a M16 bolt with a recommended torque setting of 142-152NM which is less than that of a M16 grade 8.8 bolt. Seems a bit loose and I want to push this engine beyond what the Nissan factory intended. Should I leave it since it has achieved that torque or replace it with ARP?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I was wondering why you were winding an RB30 bolt up to that torque and assumed that you were not using a stock bolt. Basically, exceeding the required (Nissan's spec) torque on that bolt by the margin that you have cannot be a very good idea. The torque is not just a function of the bolt but also what it is screwing into and the clamping surfaces that it has to load. It's no wonder that you f**ked the first one, and I'd be concerned that the second one is just simply too tight for the application. I'd get another one and do over again at a more moderate increase over the Nissan spec.

NZ-GTT Collaborator

NZ-GTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was following the advise given here: http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/  at the bottom of the page. He makes no mention of using an aftermarket bolt.

I'll get another bolt and do over again thanks. What do you consider a moderate increase?

NZ-GTT Collaborator

NZ-GTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've done more research. The torque specs given by Nissan for the RB26 match that of a grade 12.9 M18 x 1.5 bolt. Assuming that Nissan used the same grade on the RB25 & 30, the torque range for a M16 x 1.5 bolt is 300 - 380nm depending on the surface friction coefficient. I used ARP lube which changes the  coefficient even more. I've ordered an ARP bolt and will follow their recommendations. I've had a balancer come loose before and don't want a repeat.

Thanks for the advise.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Good choice to replace it.

i'll bet nissan properly engineered the rb30 bolt and torque specs, and that a properly torqued factory bolt has never come undone. The problem comes in when timing belts etc get changed long after they'v'e left the factory.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
awoken Rookie

awoken

Posted
Posted
On 29/02/2020 at 7:24 AM, NZ-GTT said:

I've done more research. The torque specs given by Nissan for the RB26 match that of a grade 12.9 M18 x 1.5 bolt. Assuming that Nissan used the same grade on the RB25 & 30, the torque range for a M16 x 1.5 bolt is 300 - 380nm depending on the surface friction coefficient. I used ARP lube which changes the  coefficient even more. I've ordered an ARP bolt and will follow their recommendations. I've had a balancer come loose before and don't want a repeat.

Thanks for the advise.

what arp bolt are u ordering the rb26 one ?? have u re tapped the 30 crank ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...