Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 26/30 is about ready to go in and I have been putting off torquing up the crank bolt to 400nm as recommended by Lewis engines on his website.

I started torquing it up in stages and the bolt reached it's yield at 350nm. After that it kept turning. Luckily I had a spare bolt and changed it out and this one torqued up to 400nm. That's Really F***en Tight! I used ARP lube on the first one and the second one went in dry but I assume there was still lube inside the crank. Any thoughts?

 

 

RB30 crank bolt.jpg

Edited by NZ-GTT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479855-rb30-balancer-bolt-rft/
Share on other sites

The RB26 is 446 - 544NM for a M18 x 1.5 bolt which is more than the recommended for a grade 10.9 of that size. the rb30 has a M16 bolt with a recommended torque setting of 142-152NM which is less than that of a M16 grade 8.8 bolt. Seems a bit loose and I want to push this engine beyond what the Nissan factory intended. Should I leave it since it has achieved that torque or replace it with ARP?

I was wondering why you were winding an RB30 bolt up to that torque and assumed that you were not using a stock bolt. Basically, exceeding the required (Nissan's spec) torque on that bolt by the margin that you have cannot be a very good idea. The torque is not just a function of the bolt but also what it is screwing into and the clamping surfaces that it has to load. It's no wonder that you f**ked the first one, and I'd be concerned that the second one is just simply too tight for the application. I'd get another one and do over again at a more moderate increase over the Nissan spec.

I was following the advise given here: http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/  at the bottom of the page. He makes no mention of using an aftermarket bolt.

I'll get another bolt and do over again thanks. What do you consider a moderate increase?

I've done more research. The torque specs given by Nissan for the RB26 match that of a grade 12.9 M18 x 1.5 bolt. Assuming that Nissan used the same grade on the RB25 & 30, the torque range for a M16 x 1.5 bolt is 300 - 380nm depending on the surface friction coefficient. I used ARP lube which changes the  coefficient even more. I've ordered an ARP bolt and will follow their recommendations. I've had a balancer come loose before and don't want a repeat.

Thanks for the advise.

Good choice to replace it.

i'll bet nissan properly engineered the rb30 bolt and torque specs, and that a properly torqued factory bolt has never come undone. The problem comes in when timing belts etc get changed long after they'v'e left the factory.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
On 29/02/2020 at 7:24 AM, NZ-GTT said:

I've done more research. The torque specs given by Nissan for the RB26 match that of a grade 12.9 M18 x 1.5 bolt. Assuming that Nissan used the same grade on the RB25 & 30, the torque range for a M16 x 1.5 bolt is 300 - 380nm depending on the surface friction coefficient. I used ARP lube which changes the  coefficient even more. I've ordered an ARP bolt and will follow their recommendations. I've had a balancer come loose before and don't want a repeat.

Thanks for the advise.

what arp bolt are u ordering the rb26 one ?? have u re tapped the 30 crank ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...