Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have 30 spline stub axles with 6 large bolt holes to be matched to a OS Giken LSD. To order the LSD I need to know which model uses my stubs. Thought it might be the R-33 but according to a post here they use 31 spline stubs. Any clues? Better still, any 100% right advice?

I'm sure I've mentioned all this before on here. The 93-94 R32 GTR rears are actually 31 spline when they changed 32s to pull clutch, but 30 tooth is the early ones when they were push.

All OS giken LSDs for GTR as far as I'm aware were only designed for the 31 spline like Quaife diffs.

31 tooth R33 or R32 splines have both been discontinued as of last year, so you're up shit creek if you need them, unless you find somewhere with old stock like I did last year in Japan and bought four sets.

R32 GTR 31 spline shaft part numbers are:

Right side 38220-12U00 (still available)

Left side 38220-12U01 (discontinued)

R32 GTR 30 spline shaft part numbers 38220-05U10 and 38220-05U11 and are still available, which is what I guess you already have.

Nismo do LSD centre to suit your 30 spline though.

You need late R32 or R33 GTR, 31 spline 1 X 6 half shafts, both of which are discontinued to use an OS giken diff. They do not make a GTR one for 30 spline, that's what I'm sayin. Not sure about 34 being 30 tooth as OS do not say the half shafts need changing, unlike a 89 - 92 BNR32.

31 spline shafts new took 6 months last time to find, and they are at least $900 a pair. Sold my last set to JMS in Adelaide.

Brad at JDM garage has a complete R32, 31 spline diff and shafts for $1300 if that's any help. I know couple of people on SAU have bought a diff purely to get the shafts.

  • Like 1

Bad news takes a while to absorb but if OSG don't have a 30 spline LSD then that's it I suppose. Damn, I've always wanted an OSG LSD.

I do have a OE Nissan LSD that takes the 30 spline stubs, condition unknown. Is their any upgrade that can be done to it? Car is for mild track use only but I hate chattering drive trains when driving around the pits etc.

As above and mentioned earlier there are other options. Nismo, Kaaz and Cusco all have 30 spline versions.

It's funny actually because the current Nismo 1.5 or 2 way GT LSD makes you change R33 and R34 from 31 back to 30 spline. Go figure.

The Nismo GT PRO actually comes with half shafts for the centre.

  • Like 1

Problem is I have a new 29 spline OSG LSD that now can't be used, bloody crap OSG cattledog.

Anyone recommend what new parts should be put in my GT-R LSD, other than the usual new plates? Can it be made as good as the alternative LSD's? Seems like the more plates the better but there is no-one in Warwick who knows this Jap stuff.

Hang on, you already have purchased a OS giken diff centre ? Obviously not a GTR one if it's a 29 spline, as 33 gtst is 29.

I would recommend selling it. If you have a GTR diff housing and the 30 spline 6 X 1 half shafts already a Nismo 1.5 or 2 way is your best bet.

From RHD or Nengun a Nismo GT 30 spline centre is only $1200AUD or GT PRO about $1500AUD, which is a hell of a lot cheaper than the OS giken super locks at over $2000.

Just an update on the 31 tooth spline. Have found old stock to make a pair while available from Japan. Can definitely source R32 right half shaft and R33 left half shaft to make it work.

1 hour ago, BK said:

Just an update on the 31 tooth spline. Have found old stock to make a pair while available from Japan. Can definitely source R32 right half shaft and R33 left half shaft to make it work.

Thanks for checking that out, the thing is that everything I have now matches up including track width which is why I want to use the 30 spline stubs. What are the NISMO LSD's like, how is the GT PRO better?

31 spline does not change anything dimension wise compared to the 30 spline, only the shaft is about 1.5mm thicker in diameter.

The Nismo GT pro has 3 stage adjustable preload without removing the diff when you pop a half shaft out. Nismo GT is preset.

Check the forum, everyone seems well impressed by them. I haven't run the 2 way, but from all accounts there very aggressive, with the 1.5way being a more popular choice.

Your easiest, cheapest option for a good result with your existing 30 spline stuff is the Nismo GT, but the PRO isn't that much more expensive as mentioned either. The GT carbon PRO is about $2500 if you feel adventurous.

  • Like 1

My diff is supposed to be out of a S14, OSG list their replacement for various S14/15 helicals, no stub axle change required. Normally I would assume that my helical stubs would suit. Incidentially my helical stubs fit a unknown model GT-R LSD I have so it could be assumed that that LSD if from a early R32.

But every time I assume something it turns out wrong so ................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...