Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 rear sub frame/ suspension interchangeability

Ravinesh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ravinesh Apprentice

Ravinesh

Posted
Posted

would anyone be able to confirm if the following are same the guys in the workshop misplaced the rear sub frame for my R33.

1. is the R33 4 door rear subframe same as the C33 Laurel one. I have access to one for a Laurel but need confirmation before I dismantle.

2. would the A31/ S13 front ball joint be the same for the RWD R33 ones

Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm just informing what the parts manual says buddy, thats all iv'e got. Matching part numbers. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how they could lose a subframe WTF.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

They didn't lose it 

Happened to me with a custom tow bar years ago with my first Skyline.

Work shop took it off to do some work on the car and when a a metal collection guy came around scavenging for scrap steel they told him to take it.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, WR33KD said:

I thought that r32 and r33 and s14 had very similar subframes but they can change the track a little.

R32 and S13 have same geometry.

R33 and S14 (and I guess, R34 and S15) have same geometry, which is different to the earlier ones, with better anti-squat properties.

Fitting the later ones into earlier chassis (or vice versa, if you're so demented as to want to do it) requires offset bushes to deal with the width difference.

C33/4 and all other similar cars (ie Cefiro, etc) will either be the same as R32 or R33, depending on whether they were being produced at the same time. The 2s and the 3s and the 4s don't line up.

HICAS or non-HICAS is the other big difference. I put an A31 subframe into my R32 to get rid of HICAS. It's the same thing as an R32 non-HICAS subframe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...