Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, yesterday, I came back home and when I turned on my street, my engine started stalling and dying out. It was in 1st and I had to keep revving it gently to avoid stalling. It lost all power and wouldn't go above 5km/h.

I wanted to go park it, but 500 meters before my house, everything went back to normal.

First thought, was to check the MAF sensor. I noticed that my HKS filter was disintegrating and had let some particles past the MAF sensor and most likely into the intake, very few though, since most of it was caught in the mesh.

I disassembled it and cleaned it using MAF sensor cleaner and as advised in another post, reset my ECU but unplugging the battery, pressing the brake 3 times and giving it 15 minutes.

Obviously, upon restart the engine was cold, so it idles at about 800-1,000 RPM. I went ahead and warmed it up driving and did a few pulls. No stuttering or any power issue, sounds and feels healthy.

After parking, it started idling strangely like this :

Engine from Cabin - Streamable

Here's what it sounds like from the outside, hear that strange "high pitched" sound ?

Engine from bay - Streamable

I'm no mechanic, but could it be a faulty MAF sensor or idle air control valve ? I'm curious as to why it only happens after the engine warms up though.

I got the car over a week ago, it's 100% stock besides a boost controller set on low boost and this just started.

Thoughts ?

Let's start with the obvious. You, that is you, will have to work out where that noise is coming from. It is probably unrelated to your idle problem. It sounds like it might be the power steering pump, or something else rotating down there, simply because of how it appeared to get louder when you pointed the camera there. But the CAS is in the same general area, and it could be noisy/dying bearings or some other rubbing problem in there. But we can't find the source of the noise across the internet. Put some time and effort into working out where the noise is coming from. Do you know how to use a length of hose to find noises?

Then the idle. I haven't seen such sudden, short, small changes in idle speed before. When my IACV is dirty/sticky and not responding to the ECU's drive signal properly, it will jump up to really high revs and behave much worse than that. Nonetheless, I would suggest that what you are seeing is the ECU responding to something changing (engine load caused by PS pump, possibly the rpm signal derived from the CAS) and simply driving the IACV more open/closed in response.

The revs if warm seem high. Did you make sure when you reconnected everything that it's all tight? Sounds like a hiss. That engine bay looks pretty weathered and I would hazard a guess and say some rubber hoses have split from being brittle after you moved the maf around.

5 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

CAS looks pretty weather beaten...maybe check the bearings? And of course clean the IACV.

Yeah, the idle air control valve was my first thought, but I wasn't entirely sure, considering the fact that when cold, it seems perfectly fine. I'll look into it tomorrow !

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Let's start with the obvious. You, that is you, will have to work out where that noise is coming from. It is probably unrelated to your idle problem. It sounds like it might be the power steering pump, or something else rotating down there, simply because of how it appeared to get louder when you pointed the camera there. But the CAS is in the same general area, and it could be noisy/dying bearings or some other rubbing problem in there. But we can't find the source of the noise across the internet. Put some time and effort into working out where the noise is coming from. Do you know how to use a length of hose to find noises?

Then the idle. I haven't seen such sudden, short, small changes in idle speed before. When my IACV is dirty/sticky and not responding to the ECU's drive signal properly, it will jump up to really high revs and behave much worse than that. Nonetheless, I would suggest that what you are seeing is the ECU responding to something changing (engine load caused by PS pump, possibly the rpm signal derived from the CAS) and simply driving the IACV more open/closed in response.

I'll start with trying to give the idle air control valve a clean up.

Also, I just noticed something strange. I was watching a video on cleaning up the IACV, and it mentioned unplugging the TPS connector and adjusting the IACV screw to set the idle. I checked on mine, and for some reason, the cable seems deleted, but the connector is still in. It was always like this, so I doubt it's THE issue, but still doesn't seem normal nonetheless !

Any thoughts about that ?

 

IMG_2556.jpg

2 hours ago, trel said:

The revs if warm seem high

It's idling at 600rpm. If anything, this is slightly low, not high.

6 minutes ago, GabRB26DETT said:

Also, I just noticed something strange. I was watching a video on cleaning up the IACV, and it mentioned unplugging the TPS connector and adjusting the IACV screw to set the idle. I checked on mine, and for some reason, the cable seems deleted, but the connector is still in. It was always like this, so I doubt it's THE issue, but still doesn't seem normal nonetheless !

Any thoughts about that ?

This is a major WTF!!!???!!??. The standard ECU needs the TPS. It cannot know you are at idle if it can't see ~0.45v coming back from the TPS. It also uses it elsewhere in the operational range to know about "accel pump" functionality, and so on.

 

7 minutes ago, GabRB26DETT said:

I'll start with trying to give the idle air control valve a clean up.

It won't be the IACV. As far as I can tell, it appears to be working. The way your tacho moves by small defined amounts looks like the idle speed is responding to the ECU changing the opening of teh IACV.

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

This is a major WTF!!!???!!??. The standard ECU needs the TPS. It cannot know you are at idle if it can't see ~0.45v coming back from the TPS. It also uses it elsewhere in the operational range to know about "accel pump" functionality, and so on.

That is the part that I don't get. It was working flawlessly before yesterday. I even looked at pictures sent by the seller before I bought it, and it was indeed this way. 

I mean, don't get me wrong, the car performs really great and sounds absolutely healthy whenever it's not idling, which confuses me.

 

Others have covered the idle issue..and they are right its bloody hard to diagnose on the internet.  Its a challenge for you and your mechanic.

Looking at all the white 'powder' in the engine bay plus the noise...I'd say you have [or have had in the past] a water pump issue.  Does it leak at all?

 

I just had another look. There are 2 loom plugs on these TPSs, and the lower one appears to be connected.

I have little direct experience with playing with these on vanilla RB25s. RB20s had a similar TPS, but the ECU used it differently. And the TPS on my 25Neo is essentially the same as vanilla 25, but I haven't had to mess with it. So I've forgotten which plug is which. You may have no real problem here, depending on what is disconnected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...