Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline GTT (automanual) rear differential oil

joufher
 Share

Recommended Posts

joufher Rookie

joufher

Posted
Posted

Can anyone recommend rear differential oil for '98 Skyline R34 GTT (automanual transmission)? 75w80 or 80w90 or 75w140? What is good for racing or extreme performance.

GTT have LSD? 

Thank you in advance. I live in Sicily, Italy and hard to find real help so I do my research and work on my R34 I use mostly for drag racing and time attack.

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

...automanual?

The Auto And Manual Turbo diffs are the same (well they have a VERY slightly different ratio).

They use the same oil, though. At least standard, which is generally considered pretty shit, as people then update the diff to some other center.

Use whatever oil that center wants ?

joufher Rookie

joufher

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

if you have an open diff or viscous LSD (effectively the same) use any  75W 140

If you have a mechanical LSD use Motul Gear Competition 75W 140

Is it not effective to use Motul gear competition 75w140 on viscous LSD? 

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

It's not that it's not effective, its that LSD specific oil (the competition stuff) has stuff for the clutches in it.

The Viscous LSD has no clutches
The Helical LSD has no clutches
The Open diff has no clutches

Generally stock diffs in skylines aren't very good anymore, (worn out) so people replace them with aftermarket plate style clutches. These need "LSD" diff oil.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Viscous LSD is not a mechanical LSD. The "LSD" part of it is a viscous coupling which is a sealed unit with its own silicone fill fluid inside it. Every mechanical gear part of a VLSD is just the same as a normal diff, so you do not need to use LSD oil in them.

The reason you need to use special oil for mechanical LSDs is that they rely on friction to do their thing. Oils are kinda all about not doing the friction thing. So you need different friction modifiers in LSD oils.

Mechanical LSDs work.

Viscous LSDs do not.

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...