Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, me again with the non running vq25det stagea, starting to nail down on components trying to diagnose my issue and noticed something while removing and cleaning my crank sensor

i noticed metal fragments on the magnetic part of the sensor, so i cleaned then off, refitted the sensor and tried to give it a strart, and i noticed for the first time in a while it fired and tried to start on the first try, but on the second and third there was no fire, so i took out the sensor again, cleaned it again and same thing, fired first try, still no start, but on second and thirrd try its again not firing

so my question is, could my sensor be faulty? what else could be causing this?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481149-m35-stagea-crank-but-no-start/
Share on other sites

Its usually crank or cam sensors.

Google instructions on how to pull fault codes from the ecu and it should pinpoint which sensor it is. There's a dance you do with the acc pedal and ignition key. Best to use a stopwatch when trying to do it. All info is available on this site via Google.

  • Like 1

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

35 minutes ago, Gibbsygoodness said:

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

Try unplugging the coolant temp sensor and then try starting

@admS15 thanks again, and i hate to be that guy, but do you know where i could find the sensor? i believe its near the thermostat but i cant seem to find anything besides what seems to be a broken plug, which could be both what im looking for and my issue

There's a pipe at the rear of the engine that connects the two banks, the coolant sensor is in that. It could also be the wiring that goes to the sensor, that should be inspected. Here is a diagram with the location highlighted.

1567665588862_big.png

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey @admS15, thanks for that tip, was a pain to remove but i got it, now here's what happened.

after removing just the plug from the sensor, it started almost no hesitation a ran rather fine besides a slight miss, so i took the sensor out and down to sprint auto, grabbed a new one as they're rather cheap, i was supplied with a cts-031 which seems to be correct and once i fitted it, it did start and run for a while but cut out after a few minutes and it looked like the temp gauge wasn't working either, but once again it continued to not start after that, i again removed the plug from the sensor and it started again but ran rough.. not quite sure where to go from here, the opinion from my group is spark plugs and coil packs but again i just really don't know

Man, im out of ideas. Have you checked the wiring loom going to the sensor. Your original code was relating to coolant temp circuit. The new sensor you got may not be 100% compatible either. I like to use genuine Nissan stuff for troubleshooting. You could go to a wreckers yard and try match up a sensor out of another Nissan like a Maxima or pulsar etc. 

Would be good to check what the actual sensor is reading. A scan tool that can read m35's will required (consult or snap on). There is a phone app that works via Bluetooth obd adaptor (elm 327) called hobdrive. The demo version should enable you to see what the temp is doing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...