Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, newish to the site but always had skylines or a 200sx kicking about. im from the uk and this site seems to be alot busier than the ones we have over here so thought id jump on and share my build. Ive had an auto r34 2 door for a year or so now but havent really done anything with it as my job was a bit uncertain and i ended up walking out 9 months ago. Jump to about 3 months ago though and they called me back and offered me a payrise and a company van so all is well again.

So with that it was time to get some speed back in my life, and i debated on getting an r35 but i just dont fancy the repair costs when they break etc (and i will break it) so ive opted for the best of both worlds and im going for a vr38 swap in my r34. Ive picked up a vr38 and sold my rb25 neo already so hopefully it wont be long and then the car is off to martin at MBautomotive for the engine to be fitted with some other tasty goodies. He has built 2 vr38 s15s in the uk, one being his own back in 2012 ish and anouther a few years ago for a customer of his.

Here is how it sits atm, only a few pics i have unfortunatly. i am on the lookout for a fibreglass bonnet like the one i have, i just dont want to cut up a carbon one for the engine to fit. Also the big gay wing has gone (wasnt big enough to be a BGW lol)
 

 
Edited by seanyreeves
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481531-vr38-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

So just spent another loads of dosh on r35 brakes, probably should of just bought an r35 lol. Got a great deal on these and ive just ordered the supertec racing fitting kit. was looking into the hypertune kit but this was uk made and ready to go in stock. These will be fitted after martin has done the engine swap as if i fit them now i have no way to make sure theyre working preoperly before he starts mapping/ road testing the car.

brembos.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481531-vr38-r34-gtt/#findComment-7943611
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Bought some te37sl to go over the new brakes, it is a tight fit though with 18s lol. The fronts will need a 6mm hubcentric spacer to actually get them to fit which is fine as i needed spigot rings anyway and there are slip on spacers to match the nissan centre bore and the te37 wheel bore size.

brakes.jpg

brakes 2.jpg

wheels 2.jpg

wheels.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481531-vr38-r34-gtt/#findComment-7945235
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So i picked up a 370z gearbag yesterday from nippon auto parts in derby. as you can see next to the r35 bell housing it is almost exactly the same. There is some minor alterations that martin will do to make it bolt right on and then use a custom flywheel and clutch combo.

gearbox1.jpg

gearbox2.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481531-vr38-r34-gtt/#findComment-7945678
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...