Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm starting to gather parts to do timing belt/water pump/general maintenance work on my GTR this winter while it's stored before starting in on power mods later next year. One thing I plan to upgrade/replace while I'm in there is the harmonic balancer. Currently trying to decide between an ATI 750 street (overkill for power rating) and the Fluidampr. They are both about the same price so just trying to see if there is a general preference for one over the other in the RB community. Couldn't seem to find any discussion comparing them on RBs.

 

Car is currently stock power but planning to turn it up a bit in the next year once all the general repairs/maintenance is done. I don't expect to ever go past about 450whp, but not shooting for anything specific; just what feels right for cruising/autoX/occasional casual track days. This just seemed like a good thing to upgrade while I was doing the timing belt.

Most builds here either use the ATI (US made) or Ross (AU made) damper, at your power level, their base models have improved over the years and are rated to around 750hp while keeping all other OEM pulleys in standard positions.  Being in the US, the ATI damper would make more sense as they can be easily rebuilt locally with local parts.  We have the same advantage with Ross balancers here.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...