Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Just remove them. Straighten them, plate them 3mm to reinforce them, complete length and spot weld fit them back on. Simples! 

When you have them off! Make a template, transfare onto fresh steel, and shape them for years to come! 

I blame tyre fitters and drifters! Never seen chassis rails made from light tin foil, reckon I could bend them with my mind. 

Going to make a plated section that is bolted. To assist in future lifting. 

DSC_0216.JPG

  • 2 weeks later...
On 06/01/2021 at 9:18 AM, maddy400r33 said:

Just remove them. Straighten them, plate them 3mm to reinforce them, complete length and spot weld fit them back on. Simples! 

When you have them off! Make a template, transfare onto fresh steel, and shape them for years to come! 

I blame tyre fitters and drifters! Never seen chassis rails made from light tin foil, reckon I could bend them with my mind. 

Going to make a plated section that is bolted. To assist in future lifting. 

DSC_0216.JPG

Maddy wow that is an amazing job!!! Are you in melb? Can you please do mine??

Just cured 95% of skyline issues myself. Removed both chassis runners by removing spot welds. Cut 3mm plates for strength. Then cleared. Rust treated chassis leg ready to plug weld plate on inside of leg before plug welding back into R33 Shell. 

DSC_0223.JPG

DSC_0221.JPG

 

DSC_0222.JPG

Edited by maddy400r33
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...