Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25 Bolt-on Turbo from MaXspeedingRods Install Guide

This is an install guide for the bolt-on budget turbo from MaXspeedingRods. 

1. Let the engine cool down and prepare to drain the coolant from the radiator. Drain the coolant from the radiator and get as much coolant out as possible. Jack up the front of the car and safely put it on jack stands.

2. Remove the Dump Pipe from the turbo. Spray some penetrating oil on the 6 bolts on the dump pipe and the 2 bolts on the catalytic converter.

3. remove all the inter cooler pipes including the J-Pipe. remove any vacuum hoses that's connected to the inter cooler pipe and turbo. Unbolting the power steering reservoir from the strut tower can be helpful for more space.

4. Remove the Exhaust manifold heat shield. Spray some penetrating oil on the turbo oil and coolant line bolts. Start with the Oil Lines. Remove the banjo bolt from the oil feed line. Remove both on the turbo and the side of the engine block. Remove the 2 Bolts on the Flange for the Oil Drain line and the banjo bolt that's connected on side of the engine block.. Once All the Oil Lines are removed start with the Coolant Lines. Remove the coolant feed and coolant drain. AVOID getting coolant on the Oil Drain line.

5. Unbolt the 4 bolts that's holding the turbo from the exhaust manifold. Again Spray some penetrating oil to avoid snapping the studs and to make it easier unbolting the bolts. Once unbolted the turbo should be able to detached and removed.

6. Install the new turbo and start with bolting it on the Exhaust Manifold. Connect All the Oil and Coolant lines and MAKE SURE TO USE NEW COPPER WASHERS. Torque the Banjo Bolts to OEM Specification to avoid leaks.

7. Install the dumpipe to the new turbo and connect it back to the rest of the exhaust system.

8. The new turbo doesn't have the 3 bolt 90 degree elbow that is found on the factory turbo on the compressor side. You can either weld a 90 degree elbow on it or simply just buy a 2 inch to a 2.5 inch 90 degree silicone elbow.

9. The new turbo intake inlet is a 3 inch compare to the factory 2.5 inch inlet. Install a 90 degree 3 inch pipe with silicone joiners and connect it with the afm and pod filter.

10. Install all the vacuum hoses and inter cooler pipe plus j pipe on and make sure all the clamps are tight to avoid boost leaks.

11. Fill the radiator with coolant and bleed the system. Top up the oil if needed and the car is ready to start.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

7.jpg

8.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...