Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, GoHashiriya said:

That's alright. I have got a copy already, albeit only the R34 one which presumably doesnt cover my 32 trans. Thanks for the reminder though as it did slip my mind.  

good on yeah mate. glad to help when i can hows things going with the car.

7 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

good on yeah mate. glad to help when i can hows things going with the car.

Honestly, It's gonna take me about a month to crack on with this job. I've gotta move house next month which will hold me back. I'm going to try and do coilovers, hicas lock and arms next weekend, plus get the wheels mounted and aligned. It's the wrong order I know, but I don't wanna have the car in an immovable state before moving.

I appreciate everyone's input so far and will be sure to update this when I make some progress.

yeah forsure bro dont rush it. i rushed my build spent way to much creates stress and takes the fun out of it. go at your own pace with fixing it and just enjoy. more to life than cars as much as we do love them.

  • Like 1

Over the weekend I had a glance under the car and found the neutral switch - located just forward of the shifter - isn't plugged into anything.

I've tried searching but have found limited results indicating the colours or location of the wires I need to plug this into. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

The best description of the wiring I've found is this:

"When you (have) disconnected the loom from the gearbox, you should have disconnected 4 plugs. The green and black plugs on the PNP switch, the plug for the speedometer which is grey with an orange and a black wire, and a second speedometer plug, which is brown. I’ll start with the PNP plugs.

You only need the black plug. On the black plug, there are 3 wires that you need. The red wire for the reverse switch, this also needs a earth wire that you can splice from the earth (black wire) that goes into the speedometer sensor. The other two wires that you need are the brown with yellow stripe and green with white stripe. These are for the neutral switch."

The thread is regarding an R34 auto-manual swap. Do these wire colours apply across the board for the 34?

Apologies for the poor quality pic, it was relatively tight under the car. 

508A362B-C048-4E85-8BFE-2CA611D8A026.jpg.58156fcd0cdb67f410d1cd41c57d65ac.jpg

There's another switch on the side of the gearbag, looks like the reverse switch. THAT is the neutral switch. What you have pointed to as the neutral switch is just the loom connector.

But more importantly, that gearbag doesn't look like an RB25DET box. Looks like RB20DET. That lettering cast in in behind the reverse switch says RP71, right?

Compare with below image of RB20 box

https://www.jdmenginesimport.com/images/EnginePics/Full/339_4_IMG_4243.jpg

  • Like 1
50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There's another switch on the side of the gearbag, looks like the reverse switch. THAT is the neutral switch. What you have pointed to as the neutral switch is just the loom connector.

But more importantly, that gearbag doesn't look like an RB25DET box. Looks like RB20DET. That lettering cast in in behind the reverse switch says RP71, right?

Compare with below image of RB20 box

 

You're correct, it's an RB20 box - a questionable choice for a swap into an ER34. I know, I know - a budget for a suitable transmission is in the works.

The switch in question for me is the one just forward of the shifter:image.png.b09fd2dd3b4fcaffcedea62251ab707b.png 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...