Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So ! As the titles says ! 
 

yes I can do more research. But why when there is great people that are willing to come to you and actually explain? 
 

I have recently purchased R35 coils for my RB25 in my R33. 
2 months and 1 week exact they bo longer want to work. Not sure if it’s an individual one or all of them. But I’ve contacted Golebys Parts and they say that dwell timing is to high? How can it be to high when I’ve had splitfires in it and have gone back to them since these failed ? They refuse to refund me as ‘I’ve broken’ then myself somehow. 
 

just looking for people opinions on this as I don’t really want to waste $700+ on this again 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481743-r35-dwell-lower-or-higher/
Share on other sites

Different coils have different dwell requirements. Changing to a cool that needs a lower dwell and not changing dwell settings to suit means you can very easily give a coil too much dwell. This will overheat and kill the coils.

Makes sense they won't refund you, it's not a coil issue if you have been using too much dwell

What dwell did golebys say to use?

I did drive mine at the settings PRP recommended for a period, then the last time I was tuning my car, Alex at Birrong had a look at my map and told me there's simply no need to run that much dwell in the coils. Told me to drop it sub 3ms at 14v.

No misfire either with 2 bar of boost.

 

 

SmartSelect_20210103-160816_Chrome.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...