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ENR34 Drivetrain Query 3x2 Shafts Vs 5x1

Toff

By Toff,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

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Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
Posted

Hi all, 

Bit of an odd thread this and looking for some insight.

I have a 98 ENR34 which I have converted to Turbo using a 98 GTT as it's donor. The engine was swapped onto the ENR34 AWD gearbox to work with the OEM ENR drivetrain. This has had the 3x2 rear shafts which are still fitted.

What I did do, was swap the sandard Cast rear hubs (with the bush type strut fitting) For GTT alloy ones, and the 3x2 shafts went straight in. The ENR has an LSD of some sorts and i needed this to keep ratios correct.

The car drives no real issue, however it seems a bit "Bindy" and its an absolute PIG to push around the garage. Other people have commented on this also. Zero issues with the rest of the car.

The GTT made 540 Flywheel HP on 1.2bar, with a weak fuel pump. Tuner reckoned an easy 600+ at more boost. The ENR made like 430 on the same map, and with all the boost (1.8bar BW S364) etc thrown at it the car made 540..... Convinced something is amiss.

I remember checking the shafts at the time and they looked the same (at least on the hub end)
But it has me thinking now that the stub length can differ? Google also tells me this.....
Can anyone confirm before I go ripping back into it? It's a good couple of years ago since I did it.
And if they are indeed different, can the ends be swapped round easily enough between the 5x1 and 3x2 shafts?

 

(Should have done it right the first time I know)

Many thanks!

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The shafts are all the same length. (Provided they are both to suit non-ABS diff housings). As in, the spline end is same same regardless. Your problem will not be this.

4 hours ago, Toff said:

The GTT made 540 Flywheel HP on 1.2bar, with a weak fuel pump. Tuner reckoned an easy 600+ at more boost. The ENR made like 430 on the same map, and with all the boost (1.8bar BW S364) etc thrown at it the car made 540..... Convinced something is amiss.

Same dyno? If not, there's no way to know if the difference is real or not.

 

The bindi-ness of it could simply be that the LSD in there is a fairly tight mechanical. "An LSD of some sort" is not a lot of information to work on. Surely this is something you would want to know about your car, right?

 

Anyway, I don't think you have a problem. I think this is mostly in your head. Stop worrying and just thrash it like it was supposed to be thrashed.

Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@GTSBoy Thanks for the response mate.

Thats good to know then, it was a small doubt in my mind and i knew it was a long shot, it would either fit and bolt up or it wouldn't was my initial thoughts but it has eaten away at me 😅

 

Different Dyno, However had a few cars on both dynos and results normally very similar, definitely not that far out anyway.

 

And only after driving it for a while did i consider it not being an OEM Diff, the car was a boggo standard N/A ENR, 200hp car so i wouldnt have thought the japanese owner would have swapped the diff.

 

It was thrown together to give some shakedowns, will be going over it and re-furbing the underside at some point while its still a rust free shell so will pull the diff etc. It doesnt make any noise mind, so be very surprised if its anything agressive but i have yet to see it spin 1 wheel, always locks up!

 

And dont worry, it gets a thrashing. Went to the nurburgring and back and did me proud, its just not quick enough..... LOL

 

Cheers

dr phil Collaborator

dr phil

Posted
Posted

One question for you, which rear crossmember are you using? I swapped to a hicas type from GTT. The bushes to mount the rear crossmember are different height from 2WD/4WD - 4wd crossmember sits lower in the car by about 10mm (has a taller bush).

At first I thought this was to set different suspension angles/roll centre, but now i think i may be more to do with tailshaft angle, i suspect the output shaft from the 4wd gearbox may also be slightly lower than in a 2wd.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, dr phil said:

but now i think i may be more to do with tailshaft angle, i suspect the output shaft from the 4wd gearbox may also be slightly lower than in a 2wd

If that's the case, then you would be better off with the subframe that matches the car, because the centrebearing height determines the angle of the rear half of the tailshaft, not the gearbox. If you change anything else, and not the centrebearing (which probably can't be easily changed anyway, not without some surgery), then it wouldn't be "right". That's dependent on the heights being different, of course. But I wouldn't put much money on that being the case.

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dr phil Collaborator

dr phil

Posted
Posted (edited)

Interesting point, I hadn’t thought about the centre bearing height. A quick review shows the upper and lower bracket, and bearing itself are all different between 2wd and 4wd. Bottom bracket looks totally different in the pics in Fast.

Edited by dr phil
  • 4 weeks later...
Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 1/10/2021 at 8:43 AM, dr phil said:

I have an almost identical setup in my ENR34, GTT aluminium rear hubs, stock ENR diffs and driveshafts. No issues with binding in mine.

Hi bud,  Thats good to know/confirm. Been a while since i did it but would have put money on it being all good at the time when i had a measure up.

As far as the subframe goes, its the stock ENR One, they have no HICAS so they're a preffered option over a GTT one with a lockoff kit no?

Next port of call is fresh wheel bearings and a full fluid change. When i did do it initially i did use fairly thick diff oil as its all i had at the time. Will do a full change out and see how she goes. Maybe a new mapper is needed...

 

Appreciate the help @GTSBoy and @dr phil

 

Any pics of your setup phil?

 

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