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Hello, 

I have a full stock r34 gtr however the brakes locked.

Brakes are fine (pedal feels good), I had to go over 90km h under rain to make it locked.

no brake leakage and brake fluid level is ok.

I'm using used (good conditions) winter tyres.

abs goes on and off after ignition is switch on.

I had a fault code 72 that I clear and it didnt get back.This fault code was relating to TPS (MFD show correctly the TP) I also checked the TPS signal on the abs connector and voltage is within spec (0.5 - 4v)

I checked the wheel sensors from the connector of the abs module I got values (using a cheap chinese ohmeter) between -0.5k and +8k (depends at which speed I turn the wheel ) with average/rest at 1.2k 

during the wheel sensors signal measurements; I moved/shake the wheel sensors wires/connectors to make sure there is no short or open in the loom/connector/sensor.

I'm out of idea ? can it be a relay ? fuses ?

best regards

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for your answer however now I'm out of idea...

 

I have performed the following tests :

- continuity test between the wiring of the abs pump and the abs ECU

- ring abs sensor are in good condition and have the correct number of teeth (46)

- all fuses are ok

- tyres are globally in same condition; is within +/- 10mm

 

- I have electrically disconnected the abs pump to test it :

* relay are ok (80 ohms and I can "hear" them when I powered them)

* solenoid valves seems ok (4 ohms or 8 ohms and consummes 1.5A or 3A; it will depends if it's an inlet or outlet)

* the abs motor is working

 

My questions :

- I have a front limited diff slip, is it possible that's making some trouble with the ABS ?

- should I open the abs pump to check the valves ?

- should I go for new tyres ?

- where can I found the software to use with nissan consult to connect to the abs ECU (so that I could log some infos)

 

Any other idea maybe ?

 

Thanks for your time

so I have bleed the entire system and the wheels are still locking

I have dixcel m or z type brake pads (I dont know if that could be an issue somehow )

I have order a consult 1 we will see
if I am still getting into trouble I will change the master brake cylinder, abs pump and abs control unit ...

best regards

I finally got a (german) consult

I was able to do the active test with success (meaning the abs pump should be ok)

the wheel data seems to be ok too, they are between +/-1kmh between each other and they are matching the real speed.

I was not able to do the self diagnostic with the consult; I might do something wrong in the process I guess (see picture)

IMG-20210226-WA0009.jpeg

 

IMG-20210226-WA0011.jpeg

20210226_123638.jpg

Edited by bigboss59400

I'm suspecting some solenoids being blocked as my wheels are still locking (my feeling is it seems to be the front only ) so I will dissasemble the pump
I have made a test this morning (7am at 1 degre; the road was dry but we some humidity on it; sorry I don't get the english word for it )

you can clearly see from the picture that my abs control seems to react correctly !
 

if the solenoids valve are in good cobdition, I will put everything back to stock :

  • no winter tyres
  • OEM pads
  • new flexible hoses (avionic )
  • new brake master


thanks

20210227_101142.jpg

20210227_101127.jpg

20210227_100701.jpg

20210227_100653.jpg

20210227_100619.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

So to conclude,

My assumption was false, based on the curves I provided we can see that the wheels has locked but the ABS release some pressure to unlock them...

Replacing the winter tyres by some regular tyres give a much better feeling too (but I don't think it was necessary)

So at the end, a bleed of the system + some cleaning on the calipers (with a lot of WD40) seems to have done the trick....yes it was such simple

French test has been passed with success this time

I can finally drive legally in a few weeks hopefully

THanks for having a look into my problem.

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