Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At what point do i need control arms/camber kit? or do i require anything else?

getting mixed responses when i was looking around so i thought id ask

fyi, getting BC coilovers 😁

Edited by YouTRIPPIN?

Not an expert, but recently went through the process with my R34, lowering anything more than the stock height will push the rear camber out negatively, my coils were barely lower than stock and i had -3deg  which burns through tyres.  I fitted adjustable rear camber arms to correct the camber back to -1 for street driving/tyre preservation

Lowering the fronts also affects the geometry, a bandaid fix includes a roll center adjuster insert, some detailed explanation below, as well as info on the effects of lowering in general.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331892-roll-centre/

Edited by JGTC
  • Like 2

I fitted 350z spring on the rear of my V35 sedan which dropped it about 25mm and was able to align it with the factory suspension, was near the limit though.  Front is more difficult as lowering causes neg camber which you can't adjust out and most upper control arms only allow more neg camber, you can get offset lower control and compression rod bushings which can compensate a little.

  • Like 1

ah i see i might just get a camber kit now since im gonna need one anyways when i do lower the car for track 😁

 

anyone got any recommendations of what kits to get? i see SPC being suggested but they say it interferes with aftermarket sway bars which i will be also having.

By a Kit, are you talking about offset adjusters or adjustable arms. Big difference in what they bring to the table.

Also depends a lot on budget & how much you like your wheel aligner bloke.

You are about to descend into a rabbit hole.

You can end up spending $2000 or $20,000, just depends on what you want to get out of it.

3 hours ago, mycarhasposessedme said:

By a Kit, are you talking about offset adjusters or adjustable arms. Big difference in what they bring to the table.

Also depends a lot on budget & how much you like your wheel aligner bloke.

You are about to descend into a rabbit hole.

You can end up spending $2000 or $20,000, just depends on what you want to get out of it.

owning a car is already a rabbit hole 😭

im talking about adjustable arms, do i need offset adjusters? what do i need to have less problems in the future?

SPL is the best IMO but also the most $$$$.

I have personal experience with their products & would highly recommend them.

The Stuff from gktech looks excellent & well priced, but i have no personal experience with their product.

Spl stuff is hard to adjust on the car & your wheel aligner will hate you.

Plenty of info out there, go to the 370z forum in the US & do some research, you'll work it out.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...