Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After looking at the R34 wiring diagrams and seeing that ABS and traction control are combined within the same control unit, I'm wondering what results people who have gone to a standalone have had. The OEM wiring that was originally sending enginer information to the TCS will no longer be doing so, and I'm fine with no TCS as I'll develop a separate strategy within the Link G4+ ECU. Just don't want to lose ABS as a result. Adam with Link suggests that I won't, and he definitely knows his way around standalone ECUs, but wanted to reach out to those in a community specific to these cars.

Thanks for any help.

No, ABS will be intact as wheel speed sensors wire directly to the traction control (or ATTESA ECU in the case of a GTR which manages ABS)

1 hour ago, JarrettL said:

The OEM wiring that was originally sending enginer information to the TCS will no longer be doing so,

Should be also still intact, as in a throttle position output from Link to traction control.

The car is an ENR34, so while not a GTR, does have the ATTESA system. In which case I may be working from the wrong wiring diagram, as the one I have has the wheel speed sensors going to the ABS/TCS control unit, and not ATTESA. Attached below.

What all does ATTESA need to see from the engine? I missed the throttle position output, but it seems that's done through position 37 on the ECU connector. Easy enough in most instances, but I'll be going to a DBW throttle. Might be another question for the Link forum.

R34 ABS Wiring Diagram.PNG

90's ABS systems are extremely over-rated. They are more-or-less an elaborate system of wheels and pulleys, clunking their way to a kind-of-but-not-really effective result. I wouldn't worry about losing it.

 

To answer your question though, my ABS worked just fine with my Link Thunder. I just ended up deleting it because it made removing my engine harness THAT much easier. And also, see above.

Oh, for sure. But I'd prefer it over nothing at all. For now, anyway. It's behavior during a track day with sticky tires and the 355/350mm Brembos will be the ultimate decider. Until then, I want to proceed with retaining as much functionality as I can, and only eliminate something whose duty is assumed by the Link, or one of the other devices I plan to run.

My car has a LS1 in it.

It still has ABS.

I didn't need to remove anything, pretty sure it cares very little about the car ECU, as I've also previously had a haltech ECU as well and not run into this.

I'll dig a bit tomorrow when I can go outside and peruse a bit inside the car, but I'm curious to know where the wiring is similar to a GTR because of the ATTESA commonality. So while my original concern of losing ABS may not be much of an issue, ATTESA might. I wish there were more ENR34s out there so some of this was documented.

I should immediately state that I have (had?.. sort of have?) a GTT. This is probably different in some way. In my car the ECUs involved appear to be seperate.

SURELY people have put aftermarket ECU's in GTR's and retained AWD and ABS though...

Sometimes there's no results about specific problems because there are no problems :)

I answered your question but I will expand regarding the Link. The only thing required from the engine control unit for the R34 GTR to retain ABS and 4WD is a throttle position output from the engine management computer from pin 37 on the original ECU. A GTT also has this output from factory. Whether you are cable or electronic throttle makes no difference - it is a separate output from ECU to ABS TCU / ATTESA control unit that sends a throttle position % output signal.

On a Haltech Elite they do this via DPO2 which is routed through to the original ECU connector pin and even mapped, allocated and setup in the R34 GTT or GTR base map.  An Apexi Power FC even does this so it retains ABS or 4WD. That said according to the Link G4X R34 GTT manual ( http://linkecu.com/documentation/NGTTX.pdf ) on page 16 the original pin 37, listed as 4WD out even on a GTT is said to be disconnected and not used. This seems pretty strange as I can't imagine Link would not enable it if it was required for ABS functionality, but never the less interesting that Haltech and even a Power FC retain this output.

You need to contact Link to clarify why it isn't used, as in, does the ABS not need a TPS output from the ECU on an R34 GTT to function, with only an R34 GTR needing this output for 4WD functionality ? (which it absolutely does on a GTR).

Or you could just forget about a Link, buy a Haltech and know either way that the R34 GTT or GTR ABS / 4WD signal is supported and will work regardless and have miles better technical support than Link.

  • Like 2

My Link is not the plug-and-play model, but is a G4+ Thunder. I'm doing an engine swap that necessitates an ECU that can control dual DBW throttle bodies and 4 camshaft position sensors, so it's either the one I already purchased and own, or it's MOTEC. At $2110 USD after taxes, this one just made more sense.

I will still take your advice and consult with Link on their forum. I hoped to spread some questions out as Adam over there is an absolute genius and I fear I'll wear out my welcome before too long. With as many pinouts as their are on that ECU, chances are that one of the PWM-capable positions can replicate TPS signal as an output.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...