Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I did a wrong hook up of my head unit and since then, even though I have fixed the wiring of the head unit, the open bonnet warning light is still on. I have done an engine light scan and tried to remove this light but no success. I have also disconnected my battery for 20 minutes and then when that did not work I left the battery disconnected overnight but the light is still on when I drive off. It does flicker a little at the start but stays on. 

Can anyone offer an answer? 

Thanks John 

Yes, that is the light, a picture of the front of a car with the bonnet up. My car is a 2008 skyline 370GT. 

I have checked the fuses in fuse box by the accelerator, all good there. 

I have checked out the fuses in the little easily accessible fuse box in front of the battery but i haven't gone into the big fuse box under the trim pierces next to the battery. That is my next port of call tomorrow. 

What do you mean by the bonnet pop up component of the SRS. If it is then how do I test that and how do I fix it? 

Thanks John 

27 minutes ago, John Stafford said:

What do you mean by the bonnet pop up component of the SRS. If it is then how do I test that and how do I fix it?

When you hit a pedestrian, explosive charges pop the rear of the bonnet up to provide more crumple space above the engine to soak up the pedestrian/car energy to reduce injury. These are, obviously, self destructive and need replacing after such a thing.

There are hundreds of posts by V series owners on here whinging about it. Look them up.

Hey John.

 

The following works on my v36.

I've done this many times.. may take a few tries to get it.

 

The procedure to reset Pop-Up Hood manually is:

 

1) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

2) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off ---> Press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

3) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

4) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off, Flashes 3 times, when goes off press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

5) Repeat steps 1-2-3-4

6) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

7) The Pop-Up light blinks slowly

😎 Turn Off

  • Like 1

Hi, with reference to step number two:

The light does not Turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back.

turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back but I am killing it as soon as I can.

With subsequent Steps and the light blinking three times it does not actually turn off after that so I am killing the ignition on the third flash. Is this correct?

  • 1 year later...

Does this issue show up in an ODBII error code scan? if so, have you tried clearing the error codes? On my 350GT I had an error that I could clear (temporarily until it occurred again or I had it fixed). When the error was flagged, it turned my VCD off, but clearing the code and restarting the car, temporarily cleared the issue

I had this light on my Q50 when I bought it as the previous owner had unplugged one of the impact sensors for a bit, the above process worked for me, but I had to allow for the time it takes for the system to respond to the start button, so I had to press the button at about the 5sec mark, so the ignition actually turned off at 7sec.  so you had to kind of pre-empt the time it takes for the light to turn off.

otherwise, you may need something like NDSIII or a consult to clear it.  I don't think an OBDII reader will do it, could be wrong though.

On 3/18/2022 at 9:03 PM, sonicii said:

...snip...

otherwise, you may need something like NDSIII or a consult to clear it.  I don't think an OBDII reader will do it, could be wrong though.

On my 350GT, I used NDSII, running on Android, connected to the ECU via a Bluetooth OBDII reader.

  • 5 months later...
On 3/13/2021 at 7:35 AM, DashyyPC said:

Hey John.

 

The following works on my v36.

I've done this many times.. may take a few tries to get it.

 

The procedure to reset Pop-Up Hood manually is:

 

1) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

2) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off ---> Press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

3) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

4) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off, Flashes 3 times, when goes off press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

5) Repeat steps 1-2-3-4

6) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

7) The Pop-Up light blinks slowly

😎 Turn Off

Thanks for this. It worked first time for me. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...