Jump to content
SAU Community

Open bonnet warning light on. How do I turn it off.

John Stafford
 Share

Recommended Posts

John Stafford Contributor

John Stafford

Posted
Posted

Hi, I did a wrong hook up of my head unit and since then, even though I have fixed the wiring of the head unit, the open bonnet warning light is still on. I have done an engine light scan and tried to remove this light but no success. I have also disconnected my battery for 20 minutes and then when that did not work I left the battery disconnected overnight but the light is still on when I drive off. It does flicker a little at the start but stays on. 

Can anyone offer an answer? 

Thanks John 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
John Stafford Contributor

John Stafford

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, that is the light, a picture of the front of a car with the bonnet up. My car is a 2008 skyline 370GT. 

I have checked the fuses in fuse box by the accelerator, all good there. 

I have checked out the fuses in the little easily accessible fuse box in front of the battery but i haven't gone into the big fuse box under the trim pierces next to the battery. That is my next port of call tomorrow. 

What do you mean by the bonnet pop up component of the SRS. If it is then how do I test that and how do I fix it? 

Thanks John 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
27 minutes ago, John Stafford said:

What do you mean by the bonnet pop up component of the SRS. If it is then how do I test that and how do I fix it?

When you hit a pedestrian, explosive charges pop the rear of the bonnet up to provide more crumple space above the engine to soak up the pedestrian/car energy to reduce injury. These are, obviously, self destructive and need replacing after such a thing.

There are hundreds of posts by V series owners on here whinging about it. Look them up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DashyyPC Collaborator

DashyyPC

Posted
Posted

Hey John.

 

The following works on my v36.

I've done this many times.. may take a few tries to get it.

 

The procedure to reset Pop-Up Hood manually is:

 

1) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

2) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off ---> Press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

3) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

4) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off, Flashes 3 times, when goes off press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

5) Repeat steps 1-2-3-4

6) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

7) The Pop-Up light blinks slowly

😎 Turn Off

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
John Stafford Contributor

John Stafford

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi, with reference to step number two:

The light does not Turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back.

turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back but I am killing it as soon as I can.

With subsequent Steps and the light blinking three times it does not actually turn off after that so I am killing the ignition on the third flash. Is this correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
Vee37 Collaborator

Vee37

Posted
Posted

Does this issue show up in an ODBII error code scan? if so, have you tried clearing the error codes? On my 350GT I had an error that I could clear (temporarily until it occurred again or I had it fixed). When the error was flagged, it turned my VCD off, but clearing the code and restarting the car, temporarily cleared the issue

Link to comment
Share on other sites
sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

I had this light on my Q50 when I bought it as the previous owner had unplugged one of the impact sensors for a bit, the above process worked for me, but I had to allow for the time it takes for the system to respond to the start button, so I had to press the button at about the 5sec mark, so the ignition actually turned off at 7sec.  so you had to kind of pre-empt the time it takes for the light to turn off.

otherwise, you may need something like NDSIII or a consult to clear it.  I don't think an OBDII reader will do it, could be wrong though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Vee37 Collaborator

Vee37

Posted
Posted
On 3/18/2022 at 9:03 PM, sonicii said:

...snip...

otherwise, you may need something like NDSIII or a consult to clear it.  I don't think an OBDII reader will do it, could be wrong though.

On my 350GT, I used NDSII, running on Android, connected to the ECU via a Bluetooth OBDII reader.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...
kaiser Apprentice

kaiser

Posted
Posted
On 3/13/2021 at 7:35 AM, DashyyPC said:

Hey John.

 

The following works on my v36.

I've done this many times.. may take a few tries to get it.

 

The procedure to reset Pop-Up Hood manually is:

 

1) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

2) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off ---> Press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

3) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

4) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off, Flashes 3 times, when goes off press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

5) Repeat steps 1-2-3-4

6) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

7) The Pop-Up light blinks slowly

😎 Turn Off

Thanks for this. It worked first time for me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      ER34 AT ECU and HKS SLD pins

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Daleo
      Exemplary Сasual Dating - Real Women

      By Daleo · Posted

      Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • dyl33
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...