Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I did a wrong hook up of my head unit and since then, even though I have fixed the wiring of the head unit, the open bonnet warning light is still on. I have done an engine light scan and tried to remove this light but no success. I have also disconnected my battery for 20 minutes and then when that did not work I left the battery disconnected overnight but the light is still on when I drive off. It does flicker a little at the start but stays on. 

Can anyone offer an answer? 

Thanks John 

Yes, that is the light, a picture of the front of a car with the bonnet up. My car is a 2008 skyline 370GT. 

I have checked the fuses in fuse box by the accelerator, all good there. 

I have checked out the fuses in the little easily accessible fuse box in front of the battery but i haven't gone into the big fuse box under the trim pierces next to the battery. That is my next port of call tomorrow. 

What do you mean by the bonnet pop up component of the SRS. If it is then how do I test that and how do I fix it? 

Thanks John 

27 minutes ago, John Stafford said:

What do you mean by the bonnet pop up component of the SRS. If it is then how do I test that and how do I fix it?

When you hit a pedestrian, explosive charges pop the rear of the bonnet up to provide more crumple space above the engine to soak up the pedestrian/car energy to reduce injury. These are, obviously, self destructive and need replacing after such a thing.

There are hundreds of posts by V series owners on here whinging about it. Look them up.

Hey John.

 

The following works on my v36.

I've done this many times.. may take a few tries to get it.

 

The procedure to reset Pop-Up Hood manually is:

 

1) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

2) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off ---> Press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

3) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

4) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off, Flashes 3 times, when goes off press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

5) Repeat steps 1-2-3-4

6) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

7) The Pop-Up light blinks slowly

😎 Turn Off

  • Like 1

Hi, with reference to step number two:

The light does not Turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back.

turn off for more than a milli second and so I cannot kill the ignition fast enough before it comes back but I am killing it as soon as I can.

With subsequent Steps and the light blinking three times it does not actually turn off after that so I am killing the ignition on the third flash. Is this correct?

  • 1 year later...

Does this issue show up in an ODBII error code scan? if so, have you tried clearing the error codes? On my 350GT I had an error that I could clear (temporarily until it occurred again or I had it fixed). When the error was flagged, it turned my VCD off, but clearing the code and restarting the car, temporarily cleared the issue

I had this light on my Q50 when I bought it as the previous owner had unplugged one of the impact sensors for a bit, the above process worked for me, but I had to allow for the time it takes for the system to respond to the start button, so I had to press the button at about the 5sec mark, so the ignition actually turned off at 7sec.  so you had to kind of pre-empt the time it takes for the light to turn off.

otherwise, you may need something like NDSIII or a consult to clear it.  I don't think an OBDII reader will do it, could be wrong though.

On 3/18/2022 at 9:03 PM, sonicii said:

...snip...

otherwise, you may need something like NDSIII or a consult to clear it.  I don't think an OBDII reader will do it, could be wrong though.

On my 350GT, I used NDSII, running on Android, connected to the ECU via a Bluetooth OBDII reader.

  • 5 months later...
On 3/13/2021 at 7:35 AM, DashyyPC said:

Hey John.

 

The following works on my v36.

I've done this many times.. may take a few tries to get it.

 

The procedure to reset Pop-Up Hood manually is:

 

1) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

2) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off ---> Press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

3) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

4) wait about 7 sec, the Pop-Up light goes off, Flashes 3 times, when goes off press Start Button immediatly (Switch Off)

5) Repeat steps 1-2-3-4

6) Press twice the Start Button (Do not start the Engine, only instrumentation!)

7) The Pop-Up light blinks slowly

😎 Turn Off

Thanks for this. It worked first time for me. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...