Jump to content
SAU Community

driving with hicas

macca
 Share

Recommended Posts

knore Grand Master

knore

Posted
Posted

hicas is only very slight turning of the rear wheels, i think the movement is 1 degree at the most. And im fairly sure it only starts working at high speeds

I feel it every now and then, and yes it is a little scary, especially if the road isnt flat and straight

I figure whenever u wanna go fast, cut the speed sensor wire and kill 2 birds with 1 stone :) no speed limiter & no hicas

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted

It sucks if your going to do track work.

Your trying to correct the car in a corner and the car's trying to correct you. Tug of war that results in time loss. So that's why it's recommended that you remove it for track.

Anquetil Mentor

Anquetil

Posted
Posted

I have the Tomei Lock kit, which has the brass washer looking things, and some sort of gdaget that is wired in and fools the ECU, just been to lazy to get it installed.

The Drift battle mag in front of me has em advertised at hi-octane for $245.

I got mine for half that 2nd hand.

Skylinegeoff also has the lock bars for sale I think?

Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

It's not actually that bad, and since you've got an R32, it'll be hydralic, not a computer. Make you feel better? :rofl:

It's a very subtle thing... the rear wheels deflect maybe 1 degree... but when you reef it around a corner at 70-80, HICAS tries to sort out what you're doing, not thinking that you're being a hoon, and tries to save you from destroying yourself... which you're trying to do on purpose, so it can be a little... frustrating. The worst it does is gives the bum end a little wiggle when cornering hard... which like it was stated before, sucks on a track.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

well i have a R31 with HICAS and it works even when stationary, dont know about later models though. Just looking at it and turning the wheel you would think it aint moving but it is.

As stated above, with normal day to day driving you would not know it is there.

But when I am driving around a long sweeping bend at speed it starts to wriggle the arse end about which feels very hairy. I also plan to remove it.

When you get the car, find a roundabout and start driving around it, slowly increasing your speed. At the start you feel in control of the car but as you get faster you feel the hicas come into play and try to work against you.

cul202 Experienced

cul202

Posted
Posted

HICAS on an R32 is inactive at low speeds & fairly passive most of the time. It doesn't so much correct you, its more about aiding more responsive turn in and increasing stability mid corner.

/searches for diagram from R32 brochure...... fails :)

Basically:

At intermediate speeds it will angle the rear wheels opposite on inital turn-in to to sharpen the turning response, then angles them the same way as the front for mid corner stability.

At high speeds it does the same minus the initial turn-in opposite angling, the idea being that at higher speed you need less turn in response.

Unless the system is playing up or you entend on doing a bit of track work I really wouldn't worry to much about it.

Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted
I've got the Tomei locking kit and my Hicas warning light still comes on whenever I'm pushing it around a corner. I'm going to grab a Kazama lock bar to make sure it's hicas-less...

It's lighting up to tell you there's an error with HICAS... namely there's two metal collars stopping it from moving. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...