Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI All
Im trying to source the male end connector of the factory fuel pump control module .. iv look on ali express and ebay but its a bit hard not know the exact manufacture part number
has anyone ever found or know the part number just for the connector

connector.thumb.PNG.1540c820f8739c43e5e57292ee3359ed.PNG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482527-r32-r33-gtr-fuel-module-connection/
Share on other sites

Assuming you don't need the loom as well, I probably have a couple of them available as I don't use them on the race car, however, I don't know which unused plug it would be

Where are you (location on profile would help)?

If it were me, I'd just replace the socket on the module with one sourced to match a new loom plug from something else. Deustch, etc. The module's socket could be on a short flylead coming out through another hole in the case.

3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Assuming you don't need the loom as well, I probably have a couple of them available as I don't use them on the race car, however, I don't know which unused plug it would be

Where are you (location on profile would help)?

True.. Sorry about that 😆

NAh dont  need the loom just the white male connector in the picture it is soldered inside to the main board just need the whole plug with the legs as one piece desoldered from the pcb

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

If it were me, I'd just replace the socket on the module with one sourced to match a new loom plug from something else. Deustch, etc. The module's socket could be on a short flylead coming out through another hole in the case.

nah it has legs directly part of the male prongs ,which are then soldered to the pcb

well I guess that makes dropping by the try some plugs difficult and postage may make the whole idea unfeasible. But if you want to see, just measure inner the physical dimensions of the socket and I'll see if I can find the plug.

Unsoldering the socket from the PCB and replacing with a flying lea may still be easier and cheaper, if you aren't confident an electronics tech could surely do it. That is how the TV input on my cima was done because I didn't have the plug

3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

well I guess that makes dropping by the try some plugs difficult and postage may make the whole idea unfeasible. But if you want to see, just measure inner the physical dimensions of the socket and I'll see if I can find the plug.

Unsoldering the socket from the PCB and replacing with a flying lea may still be easier and cheaper, if you aren't confident an electronics tech could surely do it. That is how the TV input on my cima was done because I didn't have the plug

im actually wanting to use the socket in the unit to make another harness so i dont have to cut up my original one..If that makes sence

The original body loom ends in a plug with female electrical connectors in it, yes? Then just make your loom extension with separate male pins that you can plug directly into each female recepticle on the existing body plug and throw some heatshrink around it to hold it all together. maybe a spot of hotmelt glue between the wires underneath the heatshrink to provide some mechanical strength. This would all be reversible without leaving any sign that it was there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...